Superlight S13 - No 56K!

Bad injector maybe?

Are you running a wideband to monitor you AFR's? That may help you determine the problem if you are not.

Widebands are for newbs.

Butt dyno is all you need!

OK?! Mr. AEM UEGO.

Sorry, sarcasm was on. Interwebs failed to convey my juvenile sense of humor. If you turn the boost knob, you need a wideband, period, end of discussion. If not you are strictly guessing and just digging a deeper hole in which to bury yourself...


My bad....

i have a wideband and a test pipe for sale. the test pipe needs a bigger o2 bulge tho

No way guys, it's gotta be my spark plug wires!

Probably you are running to large of a jet in your carbureator.

just gotta adjust those points....

are you running a cheap air filter. May sound funny, but i have seen cheapo air filters being sucked flat at wide open throttle. Just something to check. Sounds more like its a tune problem.

I pulled the plugs to inspect them and found the gap was at .035 rather than the proper .025. (Wrong info on the interwebs here...)
Regapped the plugs and the car runs much better until it hits about 8 PSI, then it starts to break up under boost.

Did some digging and found what appears to be a tear in an intake clamp, will need to replace that.

Also went for a ride as the passenger and I can hear occasional pops in the exhaust, so I'm assuming something is off on my ignition timing. I will adjust the timing to 15 deg. BTDC (Again) and see where we go from there.

If the ECU needs a new tune/replacement then the car is done for the year due to lack of funds. Hell, I might even consider parting it all out and starting fresh when I get a decent job.

I've also had coil pack problems before. let me know if you need them i have a full set.

When you adjust your timing make sure that you do the "timing dance" so that you actually change the base timing in the ECU. If you don't know it you can find it in the S14 FSM on the interwebs. GL.

What is the timing dance? Dialup owns me.

Timing is good, set to 15 degrees.

The engine runs nice and smooth up until I hit ~8PSI of boost. After that it bucks and feels like I'm hitting a rev limiter.

Watch the video, at :12 is exactly what my SR is doing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vAYf9J-4OU

He mentioned in the comments that it was the coil packs, but I know my car ran great before the new parts. I took a look at my CP's and didn't find any cracks or moisture.

Is there any way it could be a bad MAF sensor causing this?

speed_demon wrote:

Got everything except the fuel pump installed and took the car for a short drive. The car idles like a cammed small block, though it shouldn't be doing that.

I checked for vacuum leaks around the MAF and couldn't find any. I also checked each injector individually and all are working fine, my wiring for the MAF and injectors is spot on as well. The only things I changed were the ECU, MAF, and injectors.

On the way back around the block the engine was stuck running at ~3500 or higher rpm's, and wouldn't drop any except under load. Throttle cable is fine, something else is messed up.

Put these back on in succession, the car SHOULD go back to the way it was.

It is obviously a bad part you put on between those 3 EXTREMELY important items that run the car.

Start by putting the old MAF back on, something is wrong there I can guarantee it. The chip isn't matching the MAF or the MAF you are installing may be suspect, did wiring have to be redone for MAF? You sure its right?

The MAF wiring checks out. I had it wrong the first time but corrected it when the car was idling so poorly.

Slight problem though. I had to sell the old ecu and MAF to pay for the injectors. Not ideal, I know.

I'm going to continue to troubleshoot, next up is a boost leak test. No worries though, the car is my fun vehicle so it doesn't need to be running for me to get around.

Started tearing the Nissan apart again. There is a huge list of things that need to be done to it.

• Relocate Intercooler higher (Started on)
  
• Fix/replace bumper
  
• Have core support replaced
  
• Complete wiring harness
  
• Find battery drain
  
• Relocate battery
  
• Fix boosting problem
  
• Wire the windshield wipers back in
  
• Get a new exhaust hanger bracket
  
• Reinstall the interior
  
• Fix suspension noises
  

I'm going to be very busy.

Or just start over again with a clean chassis?

Beats all those man hours wasted. My time is super precious and worth $ in one way or another, that list may be better served by getting a rolling chassis or an auto S13. Very cheap overall in comparison.

Especially tho whole "have core support replaced", "reinstall interior", "fix suspension noises". LOL. To me that says "purchase new shell".

Of course you do as you please, but I am just trying to shed some light as I have been there/done that with DSM's. No sense in pouring $ and man hours into something that it will never be.

Again, not bagging on you man, I respect your work ethic and "can do" attitude. Its very refreshing. I am just attempting to show other routes of approaching the equation, thats all.

Best of luck in your decision/getting the car together.

Already working on it. Looking for an S13 coupe shell, though I am broke right now. I'm even considering just selling the whole car and starting another, though this would be at a huge loss which always sucks.

Only great thing about this is that this shell is 95% rust free. I have a few tiny specs of rust here and there, but nothing major at all.

speed_demon wrote:

• Relocate Intercooler higher (Started on)
  
• Fix/replace bumper
  
• Have core support replaced
  
• Complete wiring harness
  
• Find battery drain
  
• Relocate battery
  
• Fix boosting problem
  
• Wire the windshield wipers back in
  
• Get a new exhaust hanger bracket
  
• Reinstall the interior
  
• Fix suspension noises
  

I'm going to be very busy.

Nah, that's not that bad. Hell, you can even skip the wiper wiring like I did. With Rain-X, I have no intention of reinstalling them.
The battery relocate is no biggie, along with most of the other things. The core support, wire harness, and boosting problem seem like the most time consuming.

Anyone know how to weld well enough to replace a radiator support? That's really the main thing I need done before the car can be put back together.

All it is is spot welds. As long as your heat and wire speed are good I think you would be able to do it.

Only problem is I don't have a welder. My avatar was the first time I tried welding but I suck at it LOL.

I'm not that great either but I can do stitch And spot welding.