Superlight S13 - No 56K!

+1 for saving the pic. It's the most helpful pinout I've found yet.

I have another decent one here.



I'll go through some of my pictures and upload the stuff I have.

Start a new tech post with these pics and I'll sticky it.

wow nice !

For the guys running top feed injectors, what did you do to adapt the AN lines on the top feed rail to the stock feed and return lines?

I'm looking to go E85 with top feeds on the stock manifold at some point and I'm not finding much info on the top feed conversion.

I bought threaded fittings with hose fitting on the end from a hardware store.

your either going to have to run the clamp style fittings or run all new lines to the tank. I cant remember where i found them, but look for fittings that slide on the hard lines and you just re-flare them to make the seal again.

speed_demon wrote:

Maybe I've been breathing the fumes from this soldering iron too long, but I'm confused now. Is the picture looking at the back or the front of the connector?

Now taking a closer look at things, the picture looks to me just like the ecu's female side of the connection.

^ Correct.

theboy wrote:

your either going to have to run the clamp style fittings or run all new lines to the tank. I cant remember where i found them, but look for fittings that slide on the hard lines and you just re-flare them to make the seal again.

to correct myself, use these fittings to adapt to your existing hard lines.

http://pitstopusa.com/c-133905-fittings-hoses-fuel-system-fittings-filters-fuel-line-tubing-adapters.html

Shit.

Got the head off the KA today. Coolant still in the cylinders, the fresh oil I put in 100 miles ago looks like chocolate milk.

Only the head gasket is fine. So either the head or the block is likely warped...

yaaaa chocalte gooo yummy

Time for sr car #2. lol

I tore the engine down to a bare short block and found that the right side lower timing chain guide was in a million little pieces in the oil pan.

It's been like that for a while because the timing chain wore a hole through the coolant pass through port in the front cover, allowing coolant and oil to mix there up front. I'll need to find a new timing cover and a timing chain set before the engine can go back together.

At least the engine looks great in a burnt copper color.



No garage is complete without two non-functional S13's.



Edit: Opened up some nasty rust spots on the frame while placing some jack stands and it got me thinking about scrapping it.

Not sure if it's worth it to continue pouring time and money into the vert or if I should just steal all of it's goodies and sell the bare shell for scrap like I originally was going to do, I can get my full investment back that way and have a straight front end on the hatch. Just thinking out loud like I always do.

they make patches for the rails.

But honestly, its just a frame rail. Shits optional, bonus parts.

Id scrap the thing before I put another dime into it. If you could fix it on the free or extreme cheap id keep it, but if not, cut the losses.

scrap it, rusty project cars ALWAYS SUCK

I weighed my options and having some much needed parts for my hatch came out on top. So the vert's getting scrapped!

I will post up a partout thread if anyone wants dibs on any of the remaining parts.

How are the rockers and the lower part of the rear quarters under the black line? I'd be interested in you chopping them if possible?

Seems like a waste to scrap it honestly.

The rockers have some rust here and there. The passenger side quarter is rusted through at the bottom.

Link to some pics- http://www.wi240sx.com/t1133-92-240-convertible-partout#20213

On the plus side of parting out the vert - I will have a straight front end on the hatch, a straight passenger fender, a working tach, a spare diff for a future helical and a spare set of axles. I have a spare KA too but I can't make any use of it ATM.

For the SR I have tried and scrapped a dozen different plug wire prototypes for the LS coils in the last week. I am putting these coils on the back burner and looking to get a set of new coil packs instead for now.

I found out from tower240sx on NRR that VQ35 coils are similar to S15 coils and are the perfect length for an SR, as well as having a built in igniter. I will be the guinea pig and see if they work. Updates to come after the parts arrive.

These better work!

I finally got around to uploading some pics of the new VQ coils.

This is a shot of a new VQ35DE coil on my blacktop motor, as it sits on top of the plug. Mounting is easy enough, and the stock coil pack subharness fits without any problems. I am told these coils are similar internally to the S15 coils, which are a common upgrade for older SR's when making more power.

If these work well then we have ourselves a great source of high output coils you can buy new at any parts store in the U.S.

looking good

im curious, why didnt you just go out and get the splitfire sr coil setup? Or do LS coils and plug wires? Dont get me wrong, its cool that your doing all the leg work and background to find a cheaper alternative. But it seems like your wasting time when you could be driving or getting all the shit you cut off your vert on to your car.


WHat was wrong with the oem coils thats got you playing sherlock holmes for an alternative.

After monkeying around with the stock coils I found that they were all fine, I had a fried IC wire that was causing issues. They are 20 years old and I wanted to upgrade to newer parts anyway.

LS coils are a PITA to make wires for. To have them custom made is too costly.

I picked up 4 new coil packs for under $100.

stock coil pack harness worked?