Superlight S13 - No 56K!

I'm telling you its probably a coil pack. i had the exact same issue and chased it for quite a while. ended up being a coil pack.

I have the Tomei AFPR works just fine.

s13.240sx wrote:

I have the Tomei AFPR works just fine.

The external universal unit or the one that bolts to the rail?

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With the engine down I got started on the harness. First, relocated the IC to the near the ECU..

Crappy camera takes crappy pics.







Need to order some more techflex sleeving...

Is it sad that I use this thread to help keep me on track?

External regulator.

i want to do a nice wire tuck and fuse box relocation , i just need to figure out were to put it.

lssilvia wrote:

i want to do a nice wire tuck and fuse box relocation , i just need to figure out were to put it.

It cleans things up and looks good but It's a metric shit ton of work. I don't see it being worthwhile unless your harness is damaged or you have a show car. Chase bays is always an option - It looks like somebody there is real proud of their SR harness.

I'm hoping to have the engine and interior harnesses both cleaned up and sleeved by the end of the month. Now that I'm this far there's no going back, but I won't do it again on my next car.

chase bay has the brake booster delete

Where do you order your sleeving from, and what brand/type do you go with?

Im assuming you use some sort of heat resistant sleeving for some parts of the harness in the engine bay?

I have done a few minor tucks on DSMs, but I never looked into sleeving like the TechFlex, and everything always ended up looking a little hack.. Im interested to see your final product!

I use flexo-PET in uptown gold (Black with a gold tracer) from TechFlex. - http://www.techflex.com/prod_PET.asp

This stuff frays pretty heavily without a hot knife, so I might switch to the clean cut stuff for future sleeving.

I have found some good prices on the stuff on ebay from a seller called "furryletters" - Link

While tearing through the harness I found a burnt ignition coil wire between the IC and the coil packs. That might explain why swapping out the coils did nothing, and why the problem popped up so suddenly. This likely happened when the stock SR ignitor chip burned up.

Must be all related then, probably had something to do with the original ECU that died as well.

With LS motors so common around here in the JY I'm itching to swap in a set of D585 truck coils to replace my CP's with. It's only a minor change at this point with the harness all torn apart.

nice! figured it had to be coil related.

My motor being treated to a nice set of LS truck coils.

Not bad.

you said there are a lot of ls motors in the junk yards by you? which ones and around how much?

There's usually a dozen or so 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines available within a 20 mile radius of GB. I have arrow auto parts just down the road from me, and they showed 5 sets of these coil packs sitting on the shelves. That's where I bought my aluminum 5.3 from as well.

There's always smitty's too, but he doesn't have a very good rep and his prices are nuts.

Try car-part.com and enter in a vehicle year, model, zip, and part type. It's a great search engine.

what are you using for a wiring diagram? Id like to slim down the harness i just picked up but its such a rats nest that i need to go through and make sure everything is hooked up rite before i can go about tucking and hiding it correctly.

theboy wrote:

what are you using for a wiring diagram? Id like to slim down the harness i just picked up but its such a rats nest that i need to go through and make sure everything is hooked up rite before i can go about tucking and hiding it correctly.

I printed off a couple various diagrams I found online.

http://www.240edge.com/manuals/89-90_240sx/wiring_2.pdf

http://forums.nicoclub.com/240sx-fsm-full-service-manuals-s13-s14-ka24e-ka24de-t311075.html

You'll have to pick out the proper year for your harness. Also, anything to do with the popup motors is a cluster fcuk. I say ditch it all, the headlights draw power straight through the turn signal stalk and still work fine. On my hatch I had the stalk output +12V to a relay to trigger my headlights.

you have alot more patience then i do for wiring lol.

It helps being unemployed and bored.

I took some more pics of the vert. I didn't get any of the poor driver's side because it started to rain. The car will probably need a new driver's side fender and I'm thinking about doing the hatch/coupe door swap to get rid of these pillars (And lose 40 pounds per door).

I am putting some serious thought into reshelling the goodies from my hatch into the much nicer vert. With some weight reduction I could do mid to high 2500's for the vert, and it would probably be a high 12/low 13 second car with a little effort.









Not bad for $600, eh?

Edit: Found a picture of my first vert. Also had a blown HG, bought it for the same price as this one only it had much worse rust.

i have a driver side fender for ya, its been rolled.

Oh and i wasnt talking about a chassis harness. I was wondering what you used for a diagram for your sr engine harness.

Oh and before you get ahead of yourself on the vert, check the shock towers. I had one that looked identical (rust wise), and ended up braking the driver side shock tower off and putting me into on coming traffic.

theboy wrote:

i have a driver side fender for ya, its been rolled. Thanks for the offer! Only thing is, you're a few hundred miles away and shipping something that big would suck. There's a red 240 in the Pick n pull just down the road that might still have a driver's side fender.

Oh and i wasnt talking about a chassis harness. I was wondering what you used for a diagram for your sr engine harness. I have an ecu pinout I've been using. I'll try and see if I still have it saved

Oh and before you get ahead of yourself on the vert, check the shock towers. I had one that looked identical (rust wise), and ended up braking the driver side shock tower off and putting me into on coming traffic. The towers have some rust on top near the fender. It didn't look too serious.

Are you planning to go to the summer meet? I'm starting a new job this thursday so I'm not sure yet if I can get off, but if I can It would be sweet to go.

Check the towers at the seem by the brake line. Thats where they split and make big problems.

As for the summer meet. I probablt wont be able to make it out. Ill be out west for work and pro-am. So maybe some other time.

I peeked around a bit at the towers and they look good. No visible rust aside from some on top near the fenders.

Also if you're still looking for a good clear pinout, this is what I've been using.

someone should sticky that bish