Superlight S13 - No 56K!

MIG welding, with practice, is about as easy as it gets. Even I can do it!

if you can get a hold of a welder or want to bring the car down to me, i can weld it for you. I just need to finish wiring up my garage before i can do it here.

Thanks for the offer. You are a helluva drive from GB though.

I'm working on buying a shell from Kouki Chee to use for parts. That way I would basically be able to make a complete car with a straight front end again.

Once the car is finished I'm planning to eventually sell it and put the money towards something I can make faster. It'll be epic.

I'll set up a poll of my choices later on down the line and see what you guys think.

anything can be made fast. its just whatever car you like the most.

+1^

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

anything can be made fast. its just whatever car you like the most.

An Elise would be great but that's 30K I don't have to throw around. Plus It would be a tight fit for me.

I'm tossing around the idea of an FC, S14, or another superlight with an NA Miata. I still have to get this car in running shape and down to the strip for some runs before I sell it.

Check this out, take a look at some of the builds on here - http://www.norotors.com

wait ! ur selling it? dude do u ever keep a project? dont get me wrong but why dump money into this to just flip for a fue extra bucks to get into another car ur going to sell anyways! just seems such a waist.

I've thought about this decision for the past few months, and the choice to sell my baby wasn't easy.

I ran the numbers, and the car's going to need at least 3K worth of parts and lots of labor before it's at the point I'd be ready to race it on the track, which was my original goal.

Since I'm piss poor at selling cars I'm just going to put it up for trade for a stock S14 or 94+ Miata.

then you will be back to square one with a stock car thats slow that you still need to put 3k or more worth of shit into anyways. s14 is mechanically almost identical to an s13 anyways. whats the point? just my opinion.

Dude I'm 13 k. Into my wives car and I can't afford do this but I still do I still got another 5 to go but don't mean I'm going to sell to start all over specially. On another 240 that beshpoting ur self in the foot.

Shit, don't do this to me guys. You're making me want to keep the car after I made my decision...

If I were to keep the car it needs moar low, and to do that I need coils and new TRE's up front, ball joints in the back, and all new arms and shit for the alignment. That's a good 2K there with Koni/GC and good parts.

My biggest complaint is the fubar'd lights, hood, hood pins, bumper, and fenders.

Ok, tell you what - If kouki chee will sell me his shell and I can swap the core support and front end onto my hatch I'll keep the car around for a while.

just about any old(ish) car is going to need some work like TRE and ball joints. it just comes with the territory, i wouldn't get to upset about it. just upgrade as you go when you can. if your TRE are bad then get some aftermarket stuff with heims. replace stock garbage as you go.

the s13/s14 is one of the most fun chassis in existence in my opinion. huge aftermarket. light weight (esp. yours) cheap power. just be patient with the suspension parts and in a couple years you will have a kick ass car. may not be the fastest thing ever, or go around corners the best. but you will have something super reliable that gives you a great sense of satisfaction every time you take it out.

i personally own different cars with koni/gc setups and KW coilovers. just save your money and get some variant 2 kw's (or higher) the koni/gc setup is hard to beat for the money. but man KW's are nice.

I agree tuck thouse pantys and stick it out. U can alwaysssss find shells. Always! Replacing or buying another car with sr in it more problems then its worth.

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

just about any old(ish) car is going to need some work like TRE and ball joints. it just comes with the territory, i wouldn't get to upset about it. just upgrade as you go when you can. if your TRE are bad then get some aftermarket stuff with heims. replace stock garbage as you go.

the s13/s14 is one of the most fun chassis in existence in my opinion. huge aftermarket. light weight (esp. yours) cheap power. just be patient with the suspension parts and in a couple years you will have a kick ass car. may not be the fastest thing ever, or go around corners the best. but you will have something super reliable that gives you a great sense of satisfaction every time you take it out.

i personally own different cars with koni/gc setups and KW coilovers. just save your money and get some variant 2 kw's (or higher) the koni/gc setup is hard to beat for the money. but man KW's are nice.

Agreed 100%.

KW's will be my next coilover of choice.

I ran across a Cusco SR flywheel online while looking for parts to fix my car and noticed that it looks a lot like the one that came with my engine. I checked the FW out as being magnetic but not looking like the stocker before I dropped the engine in. So I either have a Cusco or Toda 10lb chromoly flywheel - Score!

Also swapped in iridium NGK plugs like Def on NRR mentioned and the car runs much better. I can boost to ~10PSI now with no problems at all, going past 12 has some slight hesitation. So my issue is definitely ignition related as before with new coppers I hit a brick wall at 8PSI.

What is your plug gap set to? Maybe you need to close it up a little bit.

I had the gap at .025 with the coppers. The iridiums are set from the factory at .030.

I was running 12 PSI with coppers at .035 and pulling nice and strong with no hesitation at all on the stock ECU/injectors before the upgrade.

run the plug gap at .025. that is the exact same symptoms i had when i had bad coil packs.

You think it's safe to regap the iridiums? The box says adjusting the gap is not advised, and the interwebs says not to touch the gap on iridiums because the ground straps break easily with force.

I've always run coppers in everything else I've owned, so my knowledge in this area is a bit hazy with different parts.

yes i would not gap them. sorry about that we posted at the same time and i didn't see your last post before mine. my bad!

my iridium plugs lasted a little over a year. then they started to misfire on me after driving on the hwy for extended periods. i pretty much just put new plugs in every year. always NGK.

I found that the hose clamp on my IAC hose had slipped off, so I threw on a new one and the car immediately ran better. I set the boost to 12 PSI and the car ran great very briefly.

After I hopped onto the highway it was back to the same old problem, and I found my MBC line popped off this time.

Edit: I ran a boost leak test and the car passes to 20PSI just fine. Still stumbling in boost. Damn.

I wonder if my FPR isn't causing this. I might just run down to the parts house tomorrow to rent a fuel pressure gauge.

Anybody have an adjustable FPR they want to sell if mine is crap? You know, tsunami water might have killed my regulator.

Did you replace your fuel pump? I thought you did, but I don't feel like cruising back through the thread to see. If you have you should. If you did then you need to install an adjustable FPR. With a upgraded fuel pump and the stock FPR you are going to be running about 50 or so pounds of fuel pressure. Which is about 6.5 psi above stock and can cause you to run rich. If you are still on your stock fuel pump then you are most likely running lean because it will never keep up with a set of 550cc injectors. You really should be running a wideband O2 gauge so you can see what you AFR is doing while your car is having problem, it would aid in your trouble shooting immensly.

I am running a new Walbro 255, Z32 filter, and new rubber fuel lines.

I will order a WB02 when funds allow. I have the car down until then.

I'm seeing people complaining about the nismo stock replacement style AFPR being unreliable. That was my first pick - Anybody on here run a Tomei universal type FPR? The only thing I can't find is whether or not it's a 1:1 unit.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/TOMEI-Universal-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Type%252dS.html