Superlight S13 - No 56K!

Im sorry man. I took all the relays out for the headlight retracts, and head lights to see what was needed to still use the oem switch with the bricks i wired up. Ended up putting the headlight relay back in to get them to work with the switch. Id rather be the person to bring bad news now then after you get your wiring finalized and you have to butcher what you did to fix shit.

I think he was referring to the ME business you wrote about. LOL.

Maybe I'm wrong, speed will tell us which statement stopped him from coppin a buzz.

^that's what i thought too.

Well than i appologize for that as well. The field has it ups and downs and is a lot about who you know. Since your spending some time in school these next few years. Make sure you really focus on as much math and strength oriented science as you can. The more you memorize and actually remember of those subjects. The better off youll be. its got its up and down moments, but if its something you love and enjoy. Then you will have no problems being an engineer. And remember, as much bitching as you do about the shop people not following prints. They are bitching an equal amount about the person responsible for the print. So make sure that every drawing you make a monkey can understand and create.

The headlights do not have a relay to switch power to them, they draw both high and low power through the headlight switch. The relays in the engine bay are for the headlight motors, the ground on the headlights is connected to the ground on one of the relays. It's an ass backward system, and it's very easy to rewire yourself.

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One thing I am still looking into is a lightweight alternator. Does anybody know off hand how many amps a stock SR needs for the ignition system and ECU?

Looks like the stock SR/KA alternators are around 90 amps. Theoretically here, the stock 90A unit has enough room (In conjunction with the battery) to handle a stereo system, heating system, power windows, etc. So that 90A unit has some headroom I don't need, and I may be able to look into a smaller, lower rated unit.

Now let's say the only draw on the system aside from the engine's needs are LED signals and tail lights, headlights, the stock cluster, and the fuel pump. What is the lightest aftermarket alternator I can install to fulfill these electrical needs?

77, I have that picture you requested before.

A little late, but no worries.



Yeah, the metal is jagged and torn. I tore that out by hand because my steel trimmer died part way on me.



Don't think I posted this before. This is what I have been working with for the last month. I know, I need to pick up my game, I'm slowing down.



The camera.



A picture taken with the camera.



Hey, another one.



Spaghetti!

Success! Thanks.

I tossed the excess wiring on a scale. 10lbs for the chassis side, 11 oz on the motor side.



I found that origin has FRP doors for the S13. After getting the mechanicals all sorted out, this is next on my list.

http://www.enjukuracing.com/products/Origin-Super-Lightweight-FRP-Doors-for-S13.html

11.5 pounds VS. 65 pounds for comparable steel doors. -107 pounds would put me down in the neighborhood of 21-2200lbs.

they make carbon or frp hatches and hoods too.....

also, you need s14 door hinges for those frp ones....since s13 doors the hinge is integrated.

Wait, so you mean I'm going to drop $800 on a set of doors and they won't bolt right up?

Doesn't that suck.

A little birdie told me that the US distributor for Origin parts is a 3 hour ride from GB. May have to take a ride down there.

speed_demon wrote:

A little birdie told me that the US distributor for Origin parts is a 3 hour ride from GB. May have to take a ride down there.

Yeah, I would guess you're talking about Touge Factory.

yeah. TF is the main supplier. enjuku gets rocket bunny shit from them too.

You can use s13 hinges, you just need to cut them off your exsisting door and make a bracket for them to bolt to the frp ones. They are far from bolt on. Will reduce a ton of weight tho.

this post on zilvia will help you with making brackets

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/210592-origin-super-lightweight-frp-doors-3.html

also for your alternator question. Never heard anyone going with a smaller lighter one, but have heard of swapping in a quest alternator to make stable voltage. And not have an underpowered alternator.

http://zilvia.net/f/engine/429483-quest-alternator-conversion-sr20-finally-bolt-kit.html

Thanks for the link about the doors.

I installed the exhaust from the turbo back, threw the driveshaft on, finished up my essential wiring, and double checked over everything.

As luck would have it, I try to start the car for the first time and find out the battery I had just charged up a few days before is dead.

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Also stumbled back on this picture of me mocking up a vortech. Would have snapped my driveline like a twig.



Compared to this. More boost this time around.



You know I never turned the V8 over in the 240? I ran out of money and was waiting until my payday to pick up fresh oil before cranking it over.

I gotta ask, what happened to your core support that made you cut it out? Were you planning on making a tube support?

It was tweaked from the accident the previous owner had. I have a plan to fix it though.



Still not running, but very close!

With the ECU in and key to on my fuel pump primes like it should. I pulled the CAS and when it's turning I can hear all four injectors firing. Good so far.

Still no spark.

Pulled the cover off and found this. (Left hand side, at center) The IC ground was burnt like a dead fusible link. No connection from the pin to the board.



Tomorrow I will head down the road to pick and pull and grab one from a Q45 and see if I get spark.

If you can't find a Q45 ignitor you can use one off of a J30 just cut the harness connectors off with it and re-pin it with your SR harness.

Already done, J30 ignitor repinned and installed. I have fuel, air, and spark. Only problem is ignition timing. This is by far my worst area.

Following online advice I pulled the VC off and turned the engine until the first piston was at TDC, cam lobes facing away from eachother and reinstalled the CAS so the dots on that lined up. I'm having a hard time finding any dark links at all when they've been covered in oil for the last 20 years.

Now while the engine is turning over it backfires every few rotations, and it doesn't even try to catch, meaning something is (clearly) off.

Sounds like you're in the ballpark. Do you have any pics of the CAS?? I'm usually pretty good with timing stuff, but I like distributors.

White paint is to identify the two shiny links.





With the engine set like this I get a nice fireball out of the intake every once in a while. I'm wondering if my repinning the ignitor chip didn't reverse two wires. They are lined up according to a guide I found, looks just like the old IC wiring.

Where is the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley? I've never seen a set of cam gear marks line up like that for timing purposes.

It's set on the second indent, the white painted one that corresponds to TDC.

I'm looking right now, but I'd have to say your intake cam is off.

9 links between the dots, as shown in the Frsport article. Must be the angle of the camera.

http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank-Angle-Sensor--CAS--Timing-on-the-SR20DET-Engine_t_25.html