matt's s13 sr20det gt2871 build

Tore the engine down today, glad i pulled the main and rod caps, both had some sketchy looking bearings, will get some pics up soon.

Anyone good with figuring out bearings, ALL the bearings(main and rod) are 0's and if i ad the numbers for the rods they should be all 1's and the mains i should have some 2's and some 3's. did some dipsh!t put all 0's in cuz they didnt know any better should i go ahead and order the numbers i figured out? any help on this would be great.

I would search in intraweb for a manual for the SR.

wow i had no clue what u said... i dont know engine measurements

I think this is what you are looking for.
http://www.frsport.com/How-to-choose-the-correct-rod-and-main-bearings-for-your-Nissan-engine-rebuild--ie-KA24DE-SR20DET-_t_48.html

Let me know if I was wrong.

I've got the manual and understand how to figure them out (its very similar to yamaha, which im used to), its just that the bearings i need according to the manual are not the ones that are currently in there. so either they were f'd up once before or the crank has been ground or something.

BTW that frsports bearing selector is way more confusing than the fsm.

all you have to do is add the number on the crank to the number on the rod or the case for each bearing then thats that number/grade you need.

That is how it goes buying a used engine/car without any documentation or records. Everything is always a surprise, like the clutch. Then you get to the bearings and they are all messed up. From what I understand about the bearings they are so minutely different that you can use anysize without any concerns. Are you able to measure them and get a good educated guess?

Yeah i can measure it decent but the bearing sizes go to the 4th decimal place which is the real differance and my micrometers only read 3 places. i talked to a local nissan dealer and they said they've ran into that a few times and said buy a new crank, GO F'in figure, they are not sure if nissan puts all 0's in from factory just to make it easy but there actually differant sizes. so baisically im in the same spot, i think im gonna order a middle size bearing and plastigauge it to see what i get. and then go from there

Sounds like the best bet to me. Like i said the diffrences are so small. I can't imagine ten-thousandths is going to make a big difference. I am not an expert though. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress. This should be a solid engine setup when you are done.

.010 is a big deal with bearings. You need the right gap for lube. To big, you get lower oil pressure and sloppy fit. Too small, and you'll eat the crank.

^ +1 to what 600sx said. I work at an engine building/machine shop and run almost all main clearances at about .0022. and rod clearances .0018. So .010 will be a huge difference, even just .001 will make a difference. I'm not sure what the recommended clearances you need are, but make sure you have them all right. Also, if at all possible, try to get your hands on a bore gauge to check those clearances because that will be way more accurate for you than plastigauge.

I agree that .010 which is read as 10-thousandths is a huge difference. I meant .0001 which is the ten-thousandths position as a decimel. I thought that was the amount of difference that he was explaining, one-ten thousandths. My bad, I fail.

s13.240sx wrote:

I agree that .010 which is read as 10-thousandths is a huge difference. I meant .0001 which is the ten-thousandths position as a decimel. I thought that was the amount of difference that he was explaining, one-ten thousandths. My bad, I fail.

I still love you.

ordering up the last of the parts tomorrow so i can start rebuilding as soon as they arrive.

On a side note I bought another jet ski today, and cant wait to ride it, the ice is just starting to break up on the river. WOOHOO

Still Waiting on the dang bearings and arp studs . Heres some more pics of the engine teardown.

Looks like a great facility to work in. Definetely beats my garage and basement.

The "facility" is my work which is a powersports dealer and I thank them for letting us do these kinds of projects there. The deal is we are known for having one of the cleanest shops in the state, so I have to leave it spotless when Im done!

X2 on the ballin shop. I would be nowhere either if my dealer didn't let me use the bomb-ass facilities.

Luxury of in-ground drive on alignment racks, tire machines, balancers, car-wash/detail dept, oil/oil disposal, lifts, alldata accounts, shop supplies/grind wheels, chemicals/sprays, paint, you name it.

I can't thank work enough for the amenities, I also have to leave my bay/area spotless, but its an even trade that I am sure you can attest to!

Cant wait to see it back together man. From one tech to another (I assume you are), its nice to see someone doing their project properly and with care!

Thumbs up on the Spec Clutch, Greddy Pulleys, and SUPER THUMBS UP on the Apexi Head Gasket.

Thumbs down on the short throw, the B and M works so much nicer.

Use new stock head bolts over ARPs and save yourself some cash.....Ive done a crapload of research and trial and error on Srs, and new headbolts work better.

nismodave wrote:

Use new stock head bolts over ARPs and save yourself some cash.....Ive done a crapload of research and trial and error on Srs, and new headbolts work better.

If im not mistaken the head bolts are torque to yield, which means they should be replaced?? How exactly do the stock one work better? also the fact that whoever was in my engine prior seemed to have everything F$cked up, makes me want to fix and or replace everything i can.

I think he meant use "new" stock head bolts. not re-use the old stock ones. I could be wrong though.

Yes NEW stock head bolts....Less expensive (if I remember correctly) and better.

I HAD ARP head bolts, and when I took my engine apart, a long time ago, they were loose.

After countless Fourm searching and talking to people that REALLY know SRs, stock bolts are a better choice. They will hold more than enough on your setup, and am told they clamp better.

BTW....Are you Milling your head and decking your block? Highly recomended IMO.

i see maybe ill get the stockys, ill have to figure out what to do with the arps then. i was thinking about it, what does the machining usually run for a price, i already got my head gasket so i dont want to be taking to much off because i didnt plan on that when i bought my HG. do you know what a safe number to take off is?

As little as possible while getting it flat. As long as it doesn't look like a roller coaster across the top of the block, you should be fine.

Eh, a REAL straight edge and a light will determine if you really need to take anything off or not.

You may not even have to take any material off. I have had several motors that were absolutely flat/straight as can be. If that is the case then there is no need to take any off as you are just going to be bumping the compression ratio. That is unless you get a thicker head gasket to make up for the material loss.

Also more headgasket layer/material = better chance to blow through.

Not to insult any intelligence here, just spoutin ideas/thoughts.

I am also no expert on tensile strength and clamping force per area, but there is no way ARP's are worse than stock head bolts. Seriously, if you have the freakin ARP's already just run them. Are they studs or bolts?

For your application it seriously will not matter whether you run the stockers or ARP's. When torqued properly any head bolts/studs are going to work whether they are ARP, Nismo, OEM ect. Its not like you are building a 1000 hp drag motor. Just follow procedure and have clean threads/lubed bolts and nothing will blow.

If you dont already know (which I am sure you do) run a simple tap on the threads in the block and you will be golden. Torque to yield bolts will do their job.

we have a surface plate at work but its not quite big enough to fit my head on completly