matt's s13 sr20det gt2871 build

Looks GREAT!!

looking good man

mattchow88 wrote:

still gotta figure out wastegate and turbo clocking

Looking good. Turbo clocking? You mean for the intercooler piping? I believe some clocking adapters will work, $cheap. For wastegate, if you're going the external route, it goes on the mani. Just advice: Heat shielding for the brake master and maybe that hose for the oil from the valve cover(looks kinda too long btw). How do you like those coilovers?

VNG704 wrote:

Just advice: Heat shielding for the brake master and maybe that hose for the oil from the valve cover(looks kinda too long btw). How do you like those coilovers?

I have that hose long so i can keep it away from exhaust and i plan on putting a heat shield in. the coilovers are stiff but good for what i want.

IT runs but dies after its warm about 5 min of running. when i push in the clutch it dies.

first start it idled high at 1100 or so ran it for about 1 min, shut off took of stands fired it up and backed it outside and went for a slow lap. after about 1/4 mile it would die when pushing in the clucth and needs gas to star ( a couple times i got it to idle at 850 or so but then it would die shortly after). took it inside put some fans on it checked some things over. after 30 min or so fired it up to check timing. with the tps unplugged it high idled for 1 min or so then it would just die. timing appeared to be at the 2nd line from the right and i believe it should be the 2nd line from the left. i went off the #1 cylinder negative wire. im 90% posotive the cam postition sensor is in right. i lined up the 1 dot and then pushed it in and the other dot lined up and i have it dead center on the slots where it was before engine removal.

My custom made wastegate bracket

I spy a z32 maf.....what is your engine management?

Are you sure you wired the z32 maf correctly? Are you sure the maf is grounded correctly?

I got an enthalpy tune for everything i have installed. including the z32 mafs. Im not sure on the wiring, from z32 plug to harness went like this.


A: Blue -to- nothing
B: Blue/orange -to- White
C: Blue/Red -to- black
D: Blue/white -to same black as C^
E: Blue/black -To- Black/white
F: Blue/yellow -to- nothing

is this correct?

Also im seeing some debate on which line is what on the crank pully mine was at 2nd from right and others say 2nd from left and internet says both.

Did you check the chips in the ECU when you got the ECU back?

http://240atlanta.com/downloads/fsm_pinout/maf.gif


Did you check your timing with a light?



http://www.frsport.com/How-To-Set-Crank-Angle-Sensor--CAS--Timing-on-the-SR20DET-Engine_t_25.html

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/files/timing_marks.jpg



Good info here!

http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/sr_setup_tips.shtml


Also!!.........Make sure that your TEMP SENSOR on the MOTOR MATCHES the Year of your car for your gauge........I dont know if it effects the s13 cars, but it does on mine.........Unreated to the running of the car, because there is another sensor for the ecu, but important.

mattchow88 wrote:

I got an enthalpy tune for everything i have installed. including the z32 mafs. Im not sure on the wiring, from z32 plug to harness went like this.


A: Blue -to- nothing
B: Blue/orange -to- White
C: Blue/Red -to- black
D: Blue/white -to same black as C^
E: Blue/black -To- Black/white
F: Blue/yellow -to- nothing

is this correct?

Also im seeing some debate on which line is what on the crank pully mine was at 2nd from right and others say 2nd from left and internet says both.

crank pulley notch, FSM says left. For the MAFS, I believe you have it correct. And about the hose above the mani, I forgot you're running an aftermarket mani where I'm running a stock. BTW nice looking wastegate bracket.

my buddy had nothing but problems dealing with that enthalpy guy. he finally just got sick of dealing with him and bought an AEM EMS

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

my buddy had nothing but problems dealing with that enthalpy guy. he finally just got sick of dealing with him and bought an AEM EMS

Ive used his tunes since I did my swap.....Zero issues.

I see your BOV is to atomosphere. Is it a vacuum leak? Maybe the BOV is not closing all of the way. Also I believe a link is posted above, but the timing should be 2nd mark from the right that + 15* advance. They allow a range of +/- 2*. Also are you doing the proper timing procedure to get the engine into timing mode? Or are you just unplugging the TPS?

Engine to operating temp.
2000 RPM for 2 min.
then Rev to 2000 RPM 3x
Shut off
Disconnect TPS
Start engine
Rev to 2000 RPM 2x
This is per the FSM so good luck. You can also adjust your idle speed at this same time. They require the same process. And as I adjusted my timing I also had to play with the idle a little as well to get them both spot on.

I like to run 17 deg.

I think my biggest issue is the compressor surge after hitting the throttle. If i pull the cable with my finger to 1500-2000 and snap it back the idle drops to about 100 and almost dies then slowly comes back. if i rev it more than that i have to feather it back down or it will die.

this is also what i did.
i didnt check the chip, i didnt do the timing mode deal. i hooked up to the loop and was just above 15 mark it seemed to like if i gave it more timing. today with the tps unplugged it wouldnt idle very well at all unless i gave it gas so i left it on. i checked tps it was .48 closed and 4.something wot and moved smooth. i rerouted my hoses on intake mani. i have a straight hose from after trhottle body to fpr. and the other one goes to boost gauge and bov. What is the fitting on the bottom of the throttle before the plate for? mine was capped off.
fuel pressure is at 43-44 at idle of 800rpm to 850 turning the iacv screw doesnt seem to make a differance. if i pinch off the hose and remove it from the fpr it goes to just over 50psi which is slightly high. i tried bringing the pressure down by hooking up a vaccum pump, i got it close to 36 but it still surged and wanted to die when throttled it idles fairly nice but if u give it just a little gas and hold steady at 2000 it seems to sneeze from 1 cylinder like super rich and when you let off you can here the compressor surge like carzy through the air filter. is the surge screwing with my mafs causing it to want to die?
it seems to run good down the road, havent went passed 5psi boost or 4000rpms yet. but rolling up to a stop i have to heel toe it to stay running.
i tried bypassing boost controller, i tried turning bov all the way in and all the way oout.
if i unplug the 4 wire iacv it dies. if i unplug knock sensor no real differance. if i unplug o2 no real differance. i bypassed the catch can, i tried adjing the wastegate arm length.

also could my open down pipe mess with my O2 sensor?

the turbo surging like that will mess with the maf reading. also try routing your bov into your intake behind the maf and in front of the turbo. that will help your idle a lot.

The nipple on the bottom of the throttle body is for your Wastegate, because it doesn't need to see vacuum only boost to operate. that is why the oriface for it is before the throttle plate. I had a similar issue with my car want to die like that. for me it turned out that there was a short going to the nuetral switch on the transmission that was messing with it. As soon as I reparied that it ran much better. I am not saying that this is your problem, just something else to look at. That switch is the one closest to the engine on the passenger side of the tranny housing.

Also The IACV will not adjust unless you get it into the timing mode. The reason is because the ECU has a locked in value that it wants to maintain unless you are in timing/idle adjustment mode. I did what you did and then when I put my car into idle mode the car actually wanted to idle at like 400 RPM. What the ECU does when you close it while not in timing mode is cause the solenoid to open and close more rapidly to compensate for the smaller amount of air being allowed in. You can NOT acurattely check your timing and idle whitout doing the timing rain dance. There are to many values that the ecu changes based on theses two intial settings.

-it still kinda pops a little if i hold it at a steady 2-3k rpm
-i will try the idle mode deal.
-also how will routing the bov to before the turbo affect idle (not trying to be a dick i just dont get it.) if its not open at idle?
-what is the symptom if i unplug the neutral switch,
-does anyone know about the fail safe injector mode where it fires all injectors every time instead of only the one that needs it?

i had a chat with a guy at frsports.
he told me its probably my ISIS brand MAFS which im not fully sure if i believe him but because of the price differance over a OEM nissan one i could understand if it was crap. im just not sure because it ran similar to this before the build but wouldnt die like it does now. which makes me question the o2 sensor and or lack of exhaust seeing that is the same as before?
he told me to get a new tune which i think is crap because i had it tuned for the exact parts i installed. i do understand that every car is differant but i would think dieing is alittle extreme.
he also said the compressor surge will be there because its a small turbo, what is your guys thoughts on that?

also im gonna try my buddys legit z32mafs to see what happens

whenever you raise the rpm and then shut the throttle quickly the bov tends to open slightly. which releases metered air and effects idle. it should idle normal after a few seconds though.

god this just makes me love my speed density even more

my old 2560r would surge like crazy. even just reving it in neutral. so that one i believe.

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

whenever you raise the rpm and then shut the throttle quickly the bov tends to open slightly. which releases metered air and effects idle. it should idle normal after a few seconds though.

god this just makes me love my speed density even more

whats this speed ensity deal???
i pinched off the hose to the bov and it still acts the same so i dont think thats my problem.

speed density runs a map sensor and air temp sensor instead of a dumb ass maf sensor.

if its not the bov then its either an air leak or the tune imo.

Did you check your chips yet? Did you GROUND the maf? Im talking a wire that goes directly from maf to the body..

Also, have you checked your Coolant? Pull off your coolant cap and let it run for a while to make sure there are no air bubbles,

I will have some time next week, I can come over and look at it if you like.