matt's s13 sr20det gt2871 build

nismodave wrote:

Did you check your chips yet? Did you GROUND the maf? Im talking a wire that goes directly from maf to the body..

Also, have you checked your Coolant? Pull off your coolant cap and let it run for a while to make sure there are no air bubbles,

I will have some time next week, I can come over and look at it if you like.

i didn't check the chips yet, i did check codes and i have a code for the knock sensor(which could def be a problem). i didnt ground the mafs, which wire should i run to ground, right now i have the 2 spliced together going to the ecu ground. im pretty sure the coolant is bled good the temp gauge goes to the middle and stay there all the time i drive. I would love to have some one knowledgable look at it. I am going to try to take it to a guy to bend me up some exhaust for it on saturday but not certain. Monday night im going up north for an atv ride through tuesday, wed im open after5 and thurs i work till 8.

I also talked to martin at rs enthalpy(who did my ecu tune) and he went over some things with me and informed me that hes seen problems with my five-o brand 740cc injectors before. I might take the ecu chips, 740 injectors and z32 Maf out and try to run it stock to eliminate them as a problem.

also whats would be a good wideband to buy seeing as my O2 may be faulty, i might as well upgrade, i have the nissan fat type, If I can get one that threads into there it would be awesome. and i donst have any safc

mattchow88 wrote:

also whats would be a good wideband to buy seeing as my O2 may be faulty, i might as well upgrade, i have the nissan fat type, If I can get one that threads into there it would be awesome. and i donst have any safc

That spot would be too close for a wide band anyways. You can get a new one at autozone for cheap. REPLACE the knock sensor!

I will maybe come up wedsday after 5. PM me with your #.

My build video and first drive
[youtube][/youtube]

I got into Timing check mode, timing is at 16 or 17 and i adj the iac to just over 800 R's. I checked the neutral switch, it appears to be good(BTW thepassenger side rear sensor is neutral and the front is reverse) I also grounded one Mafs grounds straight to chassis. If i had to say anything i would say it idles alittle better, it still wants to die but its easier to slowly let off the gas and keep it running. Still sputters while idleing and cruising. I tried checking the O2 for voltage and i couldnt get crap for a reading so i think im gonna order a new one.

I swapped MAFS with my buddys 300zx and the car still seemed sputtery but didnt die when pushing in clutch. then we drove around a while and then it wanted to die again. WTF does anyone have a working IAC I can try or buy?

Still sounds like a tune issue to me, not parts.

martin at enthalpy offered to try my ecu on a car he has there with the same setup, to see if its the problem.

I have an IAC.....It sucks thatyou have to send that thing all the way down.....

Did you replace the knock sensor? That can cause serious issues.

I might have missed it. But have you tried to pull codes to see if you have any. Also, is your check engine light on? Cause if its stuck on and you cant pull codes. Then you need to send it back to Enthalpy since they did something incorrect and theres a problem with the chip or they wrecked your board. Also look to see if they switched the ecu from "oem mode" to learn mode so it will actually recognize that the chip is there. Because anyone can soder a socket to a board and throw a chip in. But if the switch hasnt been hit it will try to run your setup as if it was stock and run like shit. Which kind of sounds like your issue. If your CEL is on all the time, that means it knows the board is there, but its staying in limp mode because theres a malfunction with the chip or socket. Enthalpy is going to protect their name and blame all your other components. Im not saying they are bad at all. Just saying they will have you buy everything brand new again to make sure its their falt. Its how all big name tuners are.


another thing, do you have a wide band A/F gauge? What are your A/F ratios when you drive it?


just my $0.02 on ecu tuning.

theboy wrote:

I might have missed it. But have you tried to pull codes to see if you have any. Also, is your check engine light on? Cause if its stuck on and you cant pull codes. Then you need to send it back to Enthalpy since they did something incorrect and theres a problem with the chip or they wrecked your board. Also look to see if they switched the ecu from "oem mode" to learn mode so it will actually recognize that the chip is there. Because anyone can soder a socket to a board and throw a chip in. But if the switch hasnt been hit it will try to run your setup as if it was stock and run like shit. Which kind of sounds like your issue. If your CEL is on all the time, that means it knows the board is there, but its staying in limp mode because theres a malfunction with the chip or socket. Enthalpy is going to protect their name and blame all your other components. Im not saying they are bad at all. Just saying they will have you buy everything brand new again to make sure its their falt. Its how all big name tuners are.


another thing, do you have a wide band A/F gauge? What are your A/F ratios when you drive it?


just my $0.02 on ecu tuning.

No codes as of now, Im not sure what you mean by "OEM mode" and learn mode, Please explain, does it have to do with the blink code screw? My check engine light doesnt come on. the ecu light comes on with key on then goes out when started like it should. I dont have a wideband. But i work in the powersports industry and it smells like a FI sport bike or quad does when its in warm up mode, super rich. Right now (with my buddys oem z32 MAFs) it runs like it did before I pulled the engine. Rich idle and sometimes dies when slowing and pushing in the clutch. but now after 300 miles on it it finally has a thumpy cam-like idle which it never really did before so i dont know if the rings are finally seating giving it more compression or what.

the "oem mode" is the mode the ecu is in when it hasnt been modified. To chip an ecu you have the switch it from that to the "learn mode." Basically you just de-soder that point to the point directly below it. Then the ecu is able to read what ever the chip has been tuned for. Without doing that, the ecu will never recognize that its been chipped. But if it running and you've got bigger injectors in it. Plus its not throwing a CEL. its probably not the ecu. When you throw bigger injectors in on a stock ecu it tends to not run. Your problem is either the tune directly(board & chip are fine and seated correctly), or youve got something a vaccuum problem. Open bov's will cause some stutter when you let off vs one thats ducted back into the system.


but do yourself a favor and go get a wide band and gauge. I use the AEM Uego and its perfect for what it is and not too expensive. Very accurate as well. It will tell you whether or not the tune is correct. And will also allow you to give better info to Enthalpy to fix your issue if indeed it is the tune.

oh and i just saw the video. Thats a lot of compressor surge. check your bov to make sure its seated and sealed to the flange on your hot pipe. I never heard it go off in the video.

theboy wrote:

oh and i just saw the video. Thats a lot of compressor surge. check your bov to make sure its seated and sealed to the flange on your hot pipe. I never heard it go off in the video.

In the video the bov was set tight and i never went over 2k rpm and i never went into boost. I think the hood being off makes it sound worse than it is but i still would like to get it better. I cant even hear whats going on because of the open downpipe.

if the tune is really really overly rich or the timing is really retarded it will make that surge like that.

Well the Wanting to die thing has stopped and now i got my custome exhaust on which is super stealth quiet and awesome. And now my rear bumper likes to turn black, GAY. On the other hand Ive got it up to 16psi so far And it pulls hard! And I'm gonna need tires soon. Oh and i still need a fat O2 if anyone has one.

^^ What was it?

600SX wrote:

^^ What was it?

I'm not really sure. I still have my buddys z32 maf on so i could be that although mine works fine on his car, and mine did die with his on my car. Maybe the rings finally seated and now i have good enough compression or something, or maybe it was the IACV and it cleaned up from driving it hard. Maybe the Ecu has a learning stage or something, Not really sure, it still has a stumble while cruising and at idle but i think thats from the over rich issue still.

A new O2 sensor is only like 75 or 80 bucks from autozone or advance. just get a O2 from a 95 300zx TT.

Glad to hear that the car is running better.