What did you do to your car today?

Everytime I think things are going smooth while working on my car something breaks and fucks with my mojo.

s13.240sx wrote:

Everytime I think things are going smooth while working on my car something breaks and fucks with my mojo.

I agree.... it's always something.

Used some Bar's leak HG stop leak in the vert and by god it worked beautifully. From sweet smelling white smoke at any load and chocolate milk for oil to running perfectly overnight.

I drove the vert to the A&W car show on velp. Had a pretty good turnout of cars there today.

I pulled the T-stat and did a coolant flush on the vert today. It almost overheated on a short drive so I knew it needed to be done. 80 miles on the car so far and I'm lovin it with the top down.

Temp gauge pegged on H while spewing boiling coolant into the overflow and no hint of white exhaust or coolant in the oil anymore. The HG is repaired, for now at least.

Quick question for the KA guys on here. I put a little over 100 miles on the new vert with only minor issues so far with the cooling system. I pulled the T-stat and flushed out the whole system with clean water. I also pulled off the intake and cleaned the MAF with maf cleaner when I got the car.

I am having some odd issues with the car all of a sudden idling at ~500rpm and not revving at all with the throttle wide open one second, then running just fine the next. Might be TPS related?

Edit: Only code on the ECU is a 34 which is for the knock sensor because I forgot to reconnect the sub harness while bleeding the system.

The car is also still spewing out clean, boiling coolant into the overflow tank. I bled the system as well as I could - I will try the inclined bleeding method. Jiggle valve is facing up on the T-stat.

Any common things I should look for?

Finally got my POS on the road last night. Thanks to Nick and Liz for helping me out with a few things.

Just a few little tweaks to get it running at its best.

Congtats man, feels good to get it running/driving i'm sure! Can't wait to see it on the 30th.

speed_demon wrote:

Quick question for the KA guys on here. I put a little over 100 miles on the new vert with only minor issues so far with the cooling system. I pulled the T-stat and flushed out the whole system with clean water. I also pulled off the intake and cleaned the MAF with maf cleaner when I got the car.

I am having some odd issues with the car all of a sudden idling at ~500rpm and not revving at all with the throttle wide open one second, then running just fine the next. Might be TPS related?

Edit: Only code on the ECU is a 34 which is for the knock sensor because I forgot to reconnect the sub harness while bleeding the system.

The car is also still spewing out clean, boiling coolant into the overflow tank. I bled the system as well as I could - I will try the inclined bleeding method. Jiggle valve is facing up on the T-stat.

Any common things I should look for?

could maybe be a bad maf itself?

s13.240sx wrote:

Finally got my POS on the road last night. Thanks to Nick and Liz for helping me out with a few things.

Just a few little tweaks to get it running at its best.

Not a problem man, Glad i could help if even just a little bit.

I have a full engine gasket set plus new headbolts on order for the vert. This old KA-DE has a blown HG and some various leaks here and there I'd like to patch up, plus I'd like to clean off the 20 years of road gunk on it.

I've never pulled an engine attached to an auto trans before, but is it really that much harder than a KA bolted to a 5MT? Can I pull the engine without draining and removing the transmission too?

speed_demon wrote:

I've never pulled an engine attached to an auto trans before, but is it really that much harder than a KA bolted to a 5MT? Can I pull the engine without draining and removing the transmission too?

Not really all that different. I would recommend draining the trans though as all the fluid is going to attempt to escape out the rear tail shaft output seal when you tip it at the angle to get it over the front radiator/core support.

The trans can be pulled as one piece with the engine and I would recommend doing it that way as well. Only big difference is if/when you go to separate the motor and trans you will be removing the bolts that bolt the torque converter to the flex plate/ring gear as well as all of the normal tranny bolts. They will be accessible through an inspection cover on the bottom side most likely.

I've never done a 240 per se' , but I have done a shit ton of built SBC's with auto trans on the ass end.

I am almost ready to pull the engine out of the vert. Just need a few more things out of the way.

Another Q - Does anybody know of if using KA-E pistons in a KA-DE for the higher compression requires the crank to be rebalanced?

It's probably not worth it, but I have a good set of KAE pistons just sitting here...

Also, anyone have an S14 upper IM laying around they want to get rid of?

Took the vert's engine and trans to the DIY car wash. Need to bring it back later because I missed a few spots.

Really poor Iphone picture.



Cleaned up these single cam pistons I had from the hatch's motor. Still deciding whether it's worth it to throw them in the KA while the head is off.

The aluminum SR pulley set I ordered arrived today. The complete alt/wp/ps set with hardware weighs in at 14oz.

I also threw my new VQ coil on the engine and sure enough, it fits! It's are a tad bit taller than the stock coils, and the VQ coils are clocked differently so it will take a minor bit of work to bolt them down.

FYI, these are set up like S15 coils with the built in ignitor and are said to be a direct swap for stock coils, with much greater spark.

interesting... Something to look into if I don't sell the car. Thanks for sharing that info. How much did the coils cost you?

They were about $25 a piece brand new. Even cheaper than used S13 coils.

Link - http://www.ebay.com/itm/250887060849?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

My uncle and I chopped, cut, welded, and beat the front end of the Nissan (mostly) back into alignment. The steel bumper actually bolts up now, and the core support just needs to be lined up and bolted down.

The car will finally have a solid, straight front end before the week is through.

(And said front end will not start to remove itself from the body at 120+ like the previous one.)

Where did you get to 120+? Nvm, don't answer that.

Today, I got in some new tie rods and boots! Needs alignment now, badly. Me, eyeballin' the measurement won't suffice, lol.

mine makes a good shelf. hopefully after next friday im able to drive it any day i want.

Yay, alignment! Now I can drive it again.

Today I drove my car and beat the piss out of it. And the whole time I didn't have to worry if it was going to break down!

are you rubbing it in dustin? because if you are...........................

Speaking of rubbing, I did the driver side wire harness fender tuck mod. Well, just enough to clear and for peace of mind. I didn't have to move it up too far because the car isn't that low.

I'm getting this mural on my hood.

Skip the hood get it tattooed on your back.

^ Lower back...