suspension question and setup??

well im gonna be in the market for some suspension stuff soon but i have some questions and hoping u guys can help me out... i currently am rocking stock strut and springs.. i want a decent drop but at the same time dont want it to ride like ass... im gonna be using the car for daily driving but also want something that can work well for the tracks when i get a chance this summer "gotta get some seat time in" just a little bit of everything i guess... i have been looking at the godspeed rs, tokico blues, and kyb agx... i was wondering if anyone has experience with any of these and tell me the ups and downs

kyb and agx with a nice spring rate works awsome for track , also stiffer lowering springs from ibach work good but not as responsive , its all in ur suspention tune and how stiff u make the body roll or how smooth , coilovers are more aggresive and ment for track use only (smooth pavment) so theres better response. id go tokico blue and some 6 fornt and 8 rear springs for that jump shot response! just saying my 2 cent!.

coilovers are not only meant for track. just isn't true. 6 front and 8 rear is idiotic. the motion rates of the front vs rear is way different. something more like 6 front 4 rear is more like it.

anyways KW coilovers are your best bet. if you want something cheaper and of excellent quality then go with koni yellow shocks and ground control coilovers. that way you can adjust your rebound to whatever spring rate you have since you can also then buy just about any rate imaginable. you can go with the soft spring big sway bar method and keep a decent ride with low rates but still have enough roll stiffness to be good at the track.

funny cuz its what i ran and it did just fine , just cuz u chose to run a weak setup dont make it idiotic! ur doing what u prefer for a set up on a daily point of view not a track run , YOu can run 10/9 springs with great damping and it will be fine on the street. You can run 8/6 with poorly matched dampers and life will suck on the street.

know ur shit before u run ur mouth!

lol youre fucking funny. read a suspension engineering book or go visit motoiq.com and nissanroadracing.com then get back to me.....

what did your suspension do fine at? did you ever take it to a road course or do anything besides drive to work on it?

as you can see here not a single suspension company runs higher rear rate than front. as you can see the tein flex, nismo s-tune and zeal street spec are close to the rates i listed. here is the list.

S13 Coilovers

Nismo S-Tune (not height adjustable)
Front: 5.3 kg/mm | 296 lb/in
Rear: 3.9 kg/mm | 218.4 lb/in

Nismo N1
Front: 8/10/12 kg/mm | 448 - 672 lb/in
Rear: 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein HA
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in

Tein HE
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in

Tein RA _
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RE
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein RS
Front = 10 kg/mm | 559 lb/in
Rear = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in

Tein FLEX
Front = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in
Rear = 4 kg/mm | 224 lb/in

Zeal Function B-6
Sreet Spec:
Front = 6 kg/mm | 336 lb/in
Rear = 5 kg/mm | 280 lb/in
Circuit Spec:
Front = 8 kg/mm | 448 lb/in
Rear = 7 kg/mm | 392 lb/in

again all drift spec settings , just cuz u go with this as ur guide line does not make it the margin to follow!

Depending on how your ride height is set, I'd go with 8/6 or 9/7.

Generally, go as soft as possible while maintaining the following criteria:

-Sufficient bump travel/no bottoming out
-Sufficient roll rate so that sway bar is not more than 25% of car's roll stiffness
-Sufficient static ride height to preserve engineered RC height
-Sufficient front spring rate to prevent braking dive, and sufficient rear spring rate to prevent accelerative dive

Once you've met the above conditions, you can start playing around with your spring and roll bar stiffnesses to fine tune your car's transient handling (turn in and corner exit), and play with your track width and roll center heights to tune your car's steady state cornering characteristics.

not to mention thats an s13 i owned an s14!

a street spec and circuit spec coilover doesn't sound like a drift setup to me.

why are you talking about an s14 when the OP needs coilovers for his s13?

and your first post seems like copy and paste from somewhere....lol

WHAT,, a copy.....are u kidding me! really! lol oh man, 3rd post yeah first no 4th yes. and i never said thats!!! what he needs!! i just gave my input on my point , never said it was s13 or s14 directed!

Since im done with this back and forth childish shit here kouki hope this helps u ITS S13 ALL DAY!


For S13s
Coilovers

Buddy Club Racing Spec Damper
15 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

Cusco Comp-S
ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-75 ~ -50) mm
Height adj. - R(-50 ~ -20) mm

Cusco Zero 1
ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-90 ~ 0) mm
Height adj. - R(-65 ~ 0) mm

Cusco Zero2
5 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-90 ~ 0) mm
Height adj. - R(-65 ~ 0) mm

Cusco Zero2R
5 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-85 ~ 0) mm
Height adj. - R(-70 ~ 0) mm

GP Sports G-Master
32 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

HKS Hipermax DRAG
30 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(4kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(3kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

HKS Hipermax II
30 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

JIC FLT-A1
5 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(0.5 ~ 0.25) inch
Height adj. - R(0.5 ~ 0.25) inch

JIC FLT-A2
15 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(0.5 ~ 0.25) inch
Height adj. - R(0.5 ~ 0.25) inch

Ksport Kontrol Pro
36 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(7kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

KTS Coilovers
15 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

Megan Racing Coilover Kit
32 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

Silk Road RM/A8
8 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm) or (8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm) or (7kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

Stance
15 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm) or (9kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm) or (7kg/mm)
Height adj. - F() inch
Height adj. - R() inch

Tanabe Sustec Pro DD
4 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch

Tanabe Sustec Pro SS
4 way front and 4 or 8 way rear adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch

Tanabe Sustec Pro SS Type II
4 way front and 4 or 8 way rear adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch

Tanabe Sustec S-OC
? way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch

Tanabe Sustec S-OC Type II
? way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(8kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(6kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.5 ~ -2.5) inch

Tein Basic Damper
ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(6kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-1.0 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-1.1 ~ -2.9) inch

Tein Super Street
16 way adjustable (compression and rebound combined), ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(6kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.7 ~ -2.2) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.1 ~ -2.5) inch

Tein Super Drift
16 way adjustable (compression and rebound combined), ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(10kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(8kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.2 ~ -3.2) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.3 ~ -2.6) inch

Tein Type FLEX
16 way adjustable (compression and rebound combined), ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(5kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(4kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(-0.1 ~ -2.5) inch
Height adj. - R(-0.8 ~ -2.4) inch

Zeal Function B6
6 way adjustable, ride height adjustable
Spring Rate - front(6kg/mm)
Spring Rate - rear(5kg/mm)
Height adj. - F(?) inch
Height adj. - R(?) inch

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Post Suspension FAQ
Ok, well i've been looking into buying aftermarket suspension parts for quite some time now, but i wanted to know exactually what i was getting, so i decided to make up this little faq about the basics of the suspension parts on our cars. The examples are mostly from SPLParts, i'm hoping that this may help others know what they are buying before hand, so they get the right type of setup for their personal driving style.



S13 Bushing Diagram
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 795x530.

2- TC(tension rod)
4- LCA(lower control arm) front
6- LCA rear
8- Forward link (traction rod)
10- Rear Upper arm
12- Toe link
14- Upright (upper)
15- Upright (lower)
16- Sub-frame (front/lower)
17- Sub-frame (rear/upper)



Spring rate and ride height information
STOCK
Spring Rate - F : 2.0kg/mm (2.2 for sport package?)
Spring Rate - R : 2.0kg/mm (2.2 for sport package?)
Ride Height - F : 0"
Ride Height - R : 0"

EIBACH PROKIT
Spring Rate - F : 1.84~1.92kg/mm
Spring Rate - R : 2.3~2.4kg/mm
Ride Height - F : -1.8" (eibach site) -1" (jnm240 test)
Ride Height - R : -1.6" (eibach site) -.75" (test)

EIBACH SPORTLINE
Spring Rate - F : 1.92~2.0kg/mm
Spring Rate - R : 2.4~2.5kg/mm
Ride Height - F : -2.2" / -1.75" (test)
Ride Height - R : -2.1" / -1.75" (test)

H & R SPORT
Spring Rate - F : 2.0~2.08kg/mm
Spring Rate - R : 2.5~2.6kg/mm
Ride Height - F : -1.3"
Ride Height - R : -1.3"

TEIN S-TECH
(progressive, TEIN only lists the maximal rate)
Spring Rate - F : 3.7
Spring Rate - R : 3.2
Ride Height - F : -1.5"
Ride Height - R : -1.2"

TEIN HIGH-TECH
Spring Rate - F: 3.3 (s13); 3.2 (s14)
Spring Rate - R: 2.9 (s13); 3.1 (s14)
Ride Height - F: -0.9" (s13); -0.7" (s14)
Ride Height - R: -0.6" (s13); -0.4" (s14)

INTRAX SPORT SPRING KIT
Spring Rate - F : (Couldn't get through to tech support)
Spring Rate - R : (Couldn't get through to tech support)
Ride Height - F : -2.25"
Ride Height - R : -2.0"

SUSPENSION TECHNIQUES
Spring Rate - F : 3
Spring Rate - R : 2.66
Ride Height - F : -1.3"
Ride Height - R : -1.3" (?)

WHITELINE CONTROL
Spring Rate - F : S13&S14 = 2.8
Spring Rate - R : S13= 2.36~3.66 S14= 1.91~3.18
Ride Height - F : -1.75"
Ride Height - R : -1.75"

TANABE GF210
Spring Rate - F : 2.9
Spring Rate - R : 2.7
Ride Height - F : -1." to -1.6"
Ride Height - R : -.6" to -1"

RS*R DOWN SPRINGS
Spring Rate - F: 3.0
SPring Rate - R: 3.0
Ride Height - F: -1.6"(s13) -1.0"(s14)
Ride Height - R: -1.2" (s13) -0.6" (s14)

RS*R RACE SPRINGS
Spring Rate - F: 5.0
Spring Rate - R: 4.5(s13) 4.2 (s14)
Ride Height - F: -1.4"
Ride Height - R: -1.2" (s13) -1.0" (s14)

MEGAN RACING LOWERING SPRINGS MR-LS-NS13 (s13):
Springrate F: 6.25kg/mm (350lbs/in)
Springrate R: 4.46kg/mm (250lbs/in)
Ride Height F: 1.75"
Ride Height R: 1.75"

MEGAN RACING LOWERING SPRINGS MR-LS-NS14 (s14):
Springrate F: 6.25kg/mm (350lbs/in)
Springrate R: 4.46kg/mm (250lbs/in)
Ride Height F: 1.75"
Ride Height R: 1.75"

ESPELIR ACTIVE SUPER DOWN -
Front - 3.0kg/mm (168.0 lb/in) ~ drops 1.9"
Rear - 2.4kg/mm (134.4 lb/in) ~ drops 1.1"

KGMM S21 SPORT -
Front - 3.2kg/mm (179.2 lb/in)
Rear - 2.6kg/mm (145 lb/in)

KGMM S21 SUPERSPORT -
Front - 4.6kg/mm (257.6 lb/in)
Rear - 3.8kg/mm (212.8 lb/in)

KGMM DR Race -
Front - 6kg/mm
Rear - 5kg/mm
Ride Height - F: 2.2"
Ride Height - R: 1.2"

5ZIGEN R-RATE -
Front - 2.4 to 5.2kg/mm (134 to 291 lb/in) ~ drops 1.3"
Rear - 1.9 to 5.0kg/mm (106 to 280 lb/in) ~ drops 1.1"

KGMM S21 RACE -
Front - 6.6kg/mm (369.6 lb/in) ~drops ?"
Rear - 5.2kg/mm (291.2 lb/in) ~ drops ?"

Sway bar information
S13
Stock ? (data from Japanparts.com) JDM ?
Front 24mm
Rear 16mm

Suspension Techniques (data from STRacing.com)
Front 27mm
Rear 20.6mm

Whiteline (data from PDMRacing.com)
Front 27mm
Rear 20-22mm

Cusco (data from Japanparts.com)
Front 28mm
Rear 18mm

Tanabe (data from Tanabe-usa.com)
Front 30.4mm
Rear 22mm

Progress
Front 27mm
Rear 22mm

S14
Stock (data from CourtesyParts)
Front 27.2mm
Rear 15.9mm

Whiteline Adjustables (data from PDMRacing.com)
Front 27mm
Rear 20mm (22mm available as well)

Suspension Techniques (data from STRacing.com)
Front 28.6mm
Rear 20.6mm

Cusco (data from Japanparts.com)
Front 30mm
Rear 21mm

Nismo (data from Japanparts.com)
Front 30mm
Rear 23mm

Tanabe (data from Tanabe-usa.com)
Front 30.4mm
Rear 27.5mm

Progress
Front 30mm
Rear 24mm

Spring/shock adjustment guide

Spring Rate Changes (def. important for those who dont pay att. to this)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front and rear rate - Ride harshness increases; tires may not follow bumps causing reduced traction. Roll resistance increases.

Increase front rate only - Front ride rate increases. Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or reducing oversteer.

Increase rear rate only - Rear ride rate increases. Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or reducing understeer.

Decrease front and rear rate - Ride harshness decreases; tires follow bumps more effectively, possibly improving traction. Roll resistance decreases.

Decrease front rate only - Front ride rate decreases. Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer.

Decrease rear rate only - Rear ride rate decreases. Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer.



Antiroll Bar Changes (aka sway bar)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Increase front rate - Front roll resistance increases, increasing understeer or decreasing oversteer. May also reduce camber change, allowing better tire contact patch compliance with the road surface, reducing understeer.

Increase rear rate - Rear roll resistance increases, increasing oversteer or decreasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, may also reduce camber change, allowing better contact patch compliance with road surface, reducing oversteer.

Decrease front rate - Front roll resistance decreases, decreasing understeer or increasing oversteer. More body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing understeer.

Decrease rear rate - Rear roll resistance decreases, decreasing oversteer or increasing understeer. On independent rear suspensions, more body roll could reduce tire contact patch area, causing oversteer.

Note - Remember to consider the construction of the sway bar and the endlinks. A solid sway bar has more resistance than a hollow bar of the same diameter. Also the addition of solid or polyurethane endlinks will artificially raise the diameter of the bar in terms of effectiveness.


Shock Absorber Changes (aka your struts)
Modification - Effect on Suspension

Rebound - The dampers resistance when the suspension is de-compressing (when you turn right the right side suspension is in rebound)

Bump - The dampers resistance when the suspension is compressing (when you turn right the left side suspension is in bump)

Increase rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness increases.

Increase rebound rates only - On bumps, tires may leave track surface.

Increase bump rates only - Body roll resisted; outside tire loaded too quickly; car won't stabilize into a turn.

Decrease rebound and bump rates - Ride harshness decreases; car may float over bumps.

Decrease rebound rates only - On bumps, tires follow track surface more effectively; car may continue to oscillate after bumps.

Decrease bump rates only - Body rolls quickly; car is slower to respond to turn-in.


How do I correct my suspension geometry?

Note: Almost every aftermarket arm has a solid rod end which replaces the worn stock rubber bushing. This increases road noise somewhat, but drastically increases the response of the suspension. It also reduces the compliancy of the suspension, which reduces the change in geometry when the suspension is bumped. This creates a much more stable feel in the car especially when cornering.



ADJUSTABLE TENSION RODS

Adjust Caster

Often one of the problem areas found in older s13s with the stock bushings still in place. The tension rod is found at the front of the car running between the front chassis and the lower control arm. It controls the amount of caster in the front suspension. Typically when raising the deg. of negative caster the steering wheel will have a stronger force to return to center when you let go of the wheel, and steering response will be slightly slower. When you lower the deg. of negative caster the steering will be more responsive, this can be beneficial and counter productive at the same time so keep adjustments in moderation.



ADJUSTABLE FRONT LOWER ARMS

Roll Moment Adjustment

Suggested only for those interested in competitive events, and or extensive track/drift usage. The arms have an adjustable shank (balljoint) that allows you to effectively raise and lower the arm, causing a corresponding change in roll geometry.



ADJUSTABLE REAR UPPER CONTROL ARMS

Rear Camber Adjustment

The rear upper control arm is a popular part because it is the only way to adjust the rear camber on the s13's besides the use of eccentric bolts. By accurately adjusting camber you can choose to either save your tires from a camber incited early death, or you can setup the rear camber to maintain the tire patch when the car pitches into the corner.



ADJUSTABLE REAR TRACTION ROD

Rear Bumpsteer Adjustment

When the suspension is lowered, an adjustable rear upper arm is usually installed to reduce the amount of negative camber at the ride height. However, when the rear upper arm is elongated to compensate for the negative camber, this alters the geometry of the rear multiple link and can cause bump-steer. Adjustment of the rear traction rod together with the rear tie rods (Hicas models) or rear toe arm (non-Hicas models), the geometry of the two two arms can be restored to eliminate bump-steer. Typically you want to make the traction rod longer than the OEM unit to reduce bumpsteer. Too much adjustment can cause an unstable change in toe when the suspension bumps. For this reason I suggest that the arm be adjusted minimally.



REAR TOE ARM

Rear Toe Adjustment

Note: HICAS model s13's cannot use these arms.

The stock rear toe adjustment has been found to run out when you have a lowered s13 with adjustable rear upper arms. For this reason the adjustable rear toe arm is made. Rear toe adjustments can change how the car pivots about a corner. Negative toe causes the rear end to want to rotate which can improve cornering but decreases stability. Positive toe works the opposite way, increasing stability but decreasing rear potential for rotation.



ADJUSTABLE REAR LOWER CONTROL ARMS

Rear Roll Center / Axis

Works in the same method as the front lower control arms.



REAR SUBFRAME TILT SPACERS

Rear Subframe Squat / Anti-Squat Properties

Subframe bushing spacers are used to tilt the subframe to change the rear suspension squat/anti-squat characteristic. Increase squat for drag racing or anti-squat for drift.

ECCENTRIC BOLTS

The S14 has eccentric bolts for rear camber and rear toe adjustment. These can cope with stock ride height and slightly lowered suspension geometries.

ok , officially wired Oo group hug??

i just don't see your point how my information was bad. yours was, not mine. you kinda confirmed that with your ENORMOUS post. lol

u just .... again one more time for thouse of us still riding the s13 train! it was input not what he SHOULD JUMP HEAD FIRST INTO AND DO CUZ IM RIGHT AND UR WRONG AND I KNOW IT ALL CUZ I CAN COPY AND PASTE FROM OTHER FOURMS TO PROVE A POINT! i never said he should go with that as his own i merley addresed what i did and what i liked, just a advice on my side, NOW anyone with half a brain would go and check there veihcle set up once they have an idea on what there looking for , he mentoined what shocks are good i just mentoined what i liked . any questions or do u want some kinda of a cookie for repeating ur self OOOOOooooono wait i get it u need some one to say good job..... no problem buddy , good job searching google and pasting info. but hey i did that to can i get a "good job " to , it be awful nice mister.

not to mention swap's and making up for weight distribution, power body vibration distortion and dampning , DUDE theres so many got dame variables out there its fucking retarded. im not saying u dont know what ur talking bout granted u did the same shit i did and added ur 2c to the paste but i dont follow the yellow brick road , i paved it , hence i dont just bolt shit on and follow specs , i make it feel the way i want so it responds to ME and MY driving style. hence why its called MY RIDE. meaning it may swing its ass out to move and slide it may be tight like virgin ass , but if i can make the laps in my setup then hay , its me all day.

i love u WISCONSIN GOODNIGHT

lssilvia wrote:

u just .... again one more time for thouse of us still riding the s13 train! it was input not what he SHOULD JUMP HEAD FIRST INTO AND DO CUZ IM RIGHT AND UR WRONG AND I KNOW IT ALL CUZ I CAN COPY AND PASTE FROM OTHER FOURMS TO PROVE A POINT! i never said he should go with that as his own i merley addresed what i did and what i liked, just a advice on my side, NOW anyone with half a brain would go and check there veihcle set up once they have an idea on what there looking for , he mentoined what shocks are good i just mentoined what i liked . any questions or do u want some kinda of a cookie for repeating ur self OOOOOooooono wait i get it u need some one to say good job..... no problem buddy , good job searching google and pasting info. but hey i did that to can i get a "good job " to , it be awful nice mister.

not to mention swap's and making up for weight distribution, power body vibration distortion and dampning , DUDE theres so many got dame variables out there its fucking retarded. im not saying u dont know what ur talking bout granted u did the same shit i did and added ur 2c to the paste but i dont follow the yellow brick road , i paved it , hence i dont just bolt shit on and follow specs , i make it feel the way i want so it responds to ME and MY driving style. hence why its called MY RIDE. meaning it may swing its ass out to move and slide it may be tight like virgin ass , but if i can make the laps in my setup then hay , its me all day.

unlike you though the only thing i copied was the coilover specs. also unlike you i have a RUNNING AND DRIVING S13 with JIC magic coilovers. i also drive two other cars one has gc coilovers with koni yellows and the other has KW variant 2 coilovers. out of the three cars the KW setup is amazing. however seeing some of the OP's normal posts it seems like he doesn't have much money to spend which is why i suggested the second route of gc/koni. i was just trying to save him from your stupid statement of mismatched spring rates and cheap parts. sorry if i offended you. i don't even know what to say to you anymore. its just a losing battle....

100x

to the OP you can also run softer spring and shock setups and maintain roll stiffness if your roll centers are corrected. just a thought depending how low you go. i don't suggest going very low without rc correction and bump steer correction.

I've also seen several tokico blue shocks fail. just save up a little more cash and get the koni/gc setup. it takes a little more work and money but its WELL WORTH IT

I've personally ran ground control with koni yellows in 2 cars (both hondas) and ground control with tokico Illumina (I think it was Illumina) in 2 cars (again hondas) and once ground controls on stock struts (my integra) and have no complains. On the stock struts as you can imagine it was bouncy and stiff but the car was LOW AS F*CK. I personally love ground control coilovers.

I gotta agree with 93 on this one, never heard of running a spring rate on the rear and lower on the front. But anyways, i have koni yellows on my ek hatch with sport springs in combination and it rides great for daily use a bit of body roll but i got a ek hatch with no rear sway bar. Once it gets warm im sure that will help solve that problem all up to you.

pancho y onions wrote:

I gotta agree with 93 on this one, never heard of running a spring rate on the rear and lower on the front. But anyways, i have koni yellows on my ek hatch with sport springs in combination and it rides great for daily use a bit of body roll but i got a ek hatch with no rear sway bar. Once it gets warm im sure that will help solve that problem all up to you.

thank you sir. your roll is probably compounded by your low ride height and no sway bars lol. a lot of race FWD cars run super high rear spring rate vs a lower front one. but honestly it has more to do with balance and motion ratios of the suspension design on other cars.

thank you for all your info... will read though it again after work... any experience with axg??

did i miss something here?

nope ,just a bitching session and weight throwing , same ol im man ur not bullshit. points were made and argued and thats bout it. typical BS is all.

Please stay on topic... Both your dicks are huge, get over it.

I have AGXs and for street driving, it's perfect. It's stiff enough to snap sideways and stay flat, but not beat you to death going down the road.