Superlight S13 - No 56K!

I took the car out for a drive around town and it drives great. I ended up popping the clamp off of the hot pipe while accelerating up tower drive bridge. Thankfully that's minor.

I do have a real problem though. It's battery related and I still have to see if my alt is properly charging.

Quick Q - Does the alternator's charge light wire, the white/red one need to be connected to +12V or ground? I followed another persons advice and have a resistor inline as I am told it needs to see a load to start producing power.

Also, anybody have a newer set of stock style mounts and want to trade for a nearly new set of Cusco semi solid mounts?

That would be these on FRsport. http://www.frsport.com/Cusco-223-910-A-Engine-Motor-Mounts-Kit-S13-S14_p_1039.html

I have two sets of mounts, the ones that came with the car (KA) and the ones that came with the swap (SR). The SR mounts seem to be very solid yet I just installed Nismo ones instead because I had them. If you want either let me know. I could probably meet you half way or something. Hell you can have both sets if you want, in trade of course.

speed_demon wrote:

I took the car out for a drive around town and it drives great. I ended up popping the clamp off of the hot pipe while accelerating up tower drive bridge. Thankfully that's minor.

I do have a real problem though. It's battery related and I still have to see if my alt is properly charging.

Quick Q - Does the alternator's charge light wire, the white/red one need to be connected to +12V or ground? I followed another persons advice and have a resistor inline as I am told it needs to see a load to start producing power.

I never installed any kind of resistor on my car and I have no problems at all. Is that wire one on the sub-harness or the main harness?

So I looked at my car now and it looks like you are refering to the connector on the alternator. The wires are solid white or white woth red stripe. According to the schematics for the KA all of the solid white wire lead back to the ECU which would mean it is most likely a 12v signal wire. That would mean the W/R wire should be a ground if I am understanding the schematics properly. They don't actually show or have a reference for the wiring for the alternator in the manual that I have. GL

The white wire with the red stripe goes to the dummy light as a "charge indicator" on the factory setup.

I am told it needs to see some sort of a load before the alternator will begin charging properly, and I ditched the dummy light on my setup. I haven't seen anybody mention specifically if the w/r wire needs ground or +12V, but I assume here that if it needs to see a load that it needs +12V.

The solid white wire just needs to see +12V from the bat, I'm good there.

Also, how many miles are on the mounts?

KA mounts=a lot
SR mounts= unknown, but judging by the wear on the rest of the engine I would suspect maybe only 40k-50k. That is just guessing though. They do not feel real soft or worn out to me.

What about the Nismo ones you mentioned?

I am using those they are NFS.

ive got a set of relatively new mounts as well. One is brand new, the other has about 1000 miles. Let know, im sure we can work something out.

PM'd.

The alternator is still not charging the battery. I picked up a new battery this morning, and with the car running the battery is at 10-12 volts and will drop slowly until the car just dies. Charges fine while the car is moving if I keep the RPM's up, if I hit a red light the car will dim the lights and die. All fuses are good and have +12V at both terminals.

I checked and cleaned up my grounds at the battery, chassis, and alternator and added an additional ground from the battery to the chassis.

I am seeing continuity between the battery and both the +12V alt terminal and the rear ground. The thick white has +12v from the fuse box and the white/red has a 100 ohm 10W resistor inline and is seeing +12V as well.

I will pull the alt and have it tested at the parts house. If it checks out I am going to be puzzled.

Any thoughts on what might be the problem though?

The exciter might only kick in at such an rpm range.

The alt failed testing. The lights aren't on and nobody is home.

And I sold my KA alt for $20 not too long ago. Funny how that works.

The charge light actually regulates the voltage regulator in the alternator. If you unplug your cluster the motor will have to be revved before the alternator will produce a charge, just to throw that in there.

On another forum I had some members wanting a video, so I whipped one up.

I did two 20-100 pulls and only one came out somewhat decent. I was doing 100 before the end of the on ramp. This was filmed at a closed location.

Yup, it's dark. And very shaky. Solid motor mounts with a solid camera mount, and that's to be expected. Don't have any co pilots brave enough to record a run with me.

BTW, the turbo whistles like mad. Sounds great in person.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi5nAvDqAAo&feature=youtu.be

When I find someone to film for me I will work on a better daytime video. For now, enjoy.

speed_demon wrote:

This was filmed at a closed location.

Your related videos are, gross.

car sounds good!

Thanks.

I made an exhaust video too. It's pretty quiet in person.

https://youtu.be/-DCpDjGk0Xs

It looks and soounds good. I would love to see your car in perso this summer. Hopefully you ca nmake it to a meet.

I would be up for a meet if it was north of milwaukee. Appleton would be sweet, but it's pretty far from the rest of you guys.

Some of you may remember the CF coil pack covers I started making. Well, I screwed them both up and ended up starving the top side for resin in places. It's still a good panel though - 2 ply 2x2 twill.

The only real problem is that it isn't as glossy as it should be everywhere. I'm not going to use it, but it seems like a huge waste to toss CF.

If anyone wants this, it's yours. I'm broke so you'll need to cover shipping.

i actually picked up a S14 valve cover to modify...so i don't have a use for them anymore....are they big enough to be modded to fit the center vent?

It's about 18x4 so you could make 2 or 3 center vent delete panels out of it if you want. The other is spoken for, so I only have one left. LMK if you want it.

if it is thick enough to support gauges i want it. just pm me how much. also you still looking to replace your mounts?

Depends on how heavy the gauges are. It's pretty thin though with 2 layers of CF. There's no reason why you couldn't double up the panel and have four layers.

I bought a set of stock mounts earlier. I do still have the Cusco mounts for sale though if you are interested.