Superlight S13 - No 56K!

LS3/LS7 clutch.



New GM pressure plate bolts too. The flywheel to crank bolts are $5 a piece?!



Also, cleaning out the old mini fridge.



And this made LOL. Look at the first two lines.



Some NHRA strip rules taken from LS1Tech. "No sir, this is just a mild 4.8 in my nissan... Dunno, maybe 15's.." Probably the last thing I say before I am kicked off of the track. Heh.

Quote :

11.49 1/4-mile (7.35 1/8-mile) or quicker:

-A 5-point minimum roll bar on a fixed roof car (t-tops okay as well if in place while racing) from 11.49 to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile). If the hardtop / t-top car has un-altered floors, firewall and frame rails (wheel tubs are okay), then the 5-point roll bar is good til 10.00 1/4 mile (6.40 1/8-mile). Convertibles require the 5-point bar from 13.49 (8.25 1/8-mile to 11.00 (7.00 1/8-mile).
The rollbar must be constructed of a minimum o.d. mild steel or chrome moly tubing (moly can be a smaller o.d and is lighter but more expensive), see diagram below for specs.
The roll bar can be bolted or welded to the floor, see diagram below for specs.
Roll bar must be padded anywhere the driver's helmet may contact it while in the driving position, see diagram below for specs.
The 5-points are:
Main hoop; 2 "down bars" (bars that go from the main hoop rearward to the trunk floor/hatch area. These can be straight or bent like a "package tray" style, search for photos); Welded crossbar for belts (can't be removable), see rulebook for exact location. Driver side door bar (can be a swing-out. Many put a passenger's side bar in as well (6-point) because it strengthens the car on both sides, but if you have subframe connectors the difference may be minimal).

-Protective Clothing (SFI jacket with a 3.2A/1 rating, no expiration date)

-5 point harness (up to date, they must be replaced or re-certified every 2 years; You can re-cert by shipping the belts to the manufacturer, or buy new ones. I usually buy new ones and sell the old ones on EBay (street racers and dune buggies buy 'em).

-SFI-approved flywheel and/or clutch (no expiration date)

-Screw-in valve stems

-No tint allowed on window except factory

You need some rum chate in that fridge!!!

Liz do u mean cinnemon toast chruch?? haha

rum chata!!! lol.
my cat doesn't like it.. btw.

Still searching for a free flowing, mostly quiet 3.5'' muffler. I do intend to run either a glasspack or a race bullet style resonator somewhere in the exhaust system.

I found a flowmasher 50 series SUV chambered unit available in 3.5'' for a reasonable amount.

I am really starting to like the hooker aerochamber too. It's a large case muffler with a straight through design.

Some videos.

I want to hear this in person. It almost sounds like it would be pretty nice if I could turn the volume down a bit but keep the same tone.

Aerochamber.
'02 ls1 camaro full hooker exhaust rev - YouTube

Another aerochamber.
1967 Camaro LS2 Exhaust - YouTube

Same muffler, much quieter this time. This is the same overall tone and volume I want. This truck has cats and no resonators.
Silverado hooker aerochamber - YouTube

I am ready to start assembling things, and with my harness coming tomorrow things are looking promising.

I did some shopping around and found a person willing to tune my ecu to my exact needs for $175 which I think is more than fair.

I started digging a bit into the factory Nissan chassis harness and it looks like I will have to rewire a good chunk of it to work the way I want it to, and I can shed some more easy weight in the process. Why have stereo and heater core wiring stuffs sitting there with nothing for it to run?

I am figuring for 4-6 hours of reworking the factory chassis harness to work with the swap. I need to work in a conversion box for the speedo somewhere in there as well as a 91-94 DOHC gauge cluster for the LS tach.

I found some surface rust starting on the chassis in most places where I removed brackets, so that needs to be taken care of too.

Also need to chop out the old radiator header panel and mount my 1/8'' x 1'' x 1'' aluminum angle along with getting some hood pins installed.

I found the LS7 solstice build that I mentioned earlier. http://www.hotrod.com/projectbuild/hdrp_0607_ls7_pontiac_solstice_road_test/viewall.html

Final curb weight is 2800lbs and the car runs 10s with 1.05G on the skidpad. I can only hope my Dangerous Datsun will be a lighter, taughter version of this.

My professionally built standalone harness arrived today. It is a level of quality that would have taken me months to duplicate.

I cannot say enough about how well made this is - Definitely made by someone who knows what they are doing. And bench tested to be sure it works!

This is set up for an LS engine with an LS1 style intake, 5 wire silverado MAF, and designed to be independent of any chassis wiring besides switched and hot +12V ign. It has it's own fuse block and fuel pump relay, along with a fuel pump +12V out wire to bypass any factory wiring mess. It also has it's own check engine light wiring, OB2 port, and tach output.

I figure if I don't fully explain it I get questions, so I do my best.

Pictures:



A close up of the fuel pump 40A relay and fuse block with fuses pre-installed.



Close up of just two individual wires and their associated info. All wires and connectors are labeled.

wow coming along awsome

That is a nice looking wiring harness, almost looks like an OEM piece.

Who did the harness?

Crap, I missed some info! It was done by TechRods and I purchased it on Ebay. I paid $420 shipped to my door. The harness originally came with a Camaro 3 wire MAF connector, and he changed it to the Silverado MAF connector for no charge.

The only downside is that it took a while to arrive.

Looks good, and a good price.

Well this sucks. I picked up a new slave cylinder and connected my lines to it. I punched out the roll pin on the input line, then installed my adapter and reinstalled the roll pin.

I went to bleed the lines and my adapter on the input side of the slave was leaking like nuts. I punched the roll pin back out, which only came out part way before self destructing, and found that my gasket is fine.

Now my slave has half of a destroyed roll pin stuck in it and I have to either fix it or try to return it.

Trial fitment and mock up.

Chopped out my radiator support to allow as seamless a transplant as possible. Line it all up outside and bolt it in.









New GM bellhousing to block bolts.

I made my own CAGS delete plug, complete with a speed hole in the center for more weight reduction. -1lb on the T56.

I also removed my reverse lockout and installed the spring directly into the case. I do not have any reverse lockout solenoid installed, and I guarantee that you have to intend to shift into reverse to do so. I will type up a DIY write up later on how I did it. -1lb on the T56.

The clutch slave is bled, the engine and trans are installed for the final time, and I am working on locating the mounting hole for the new Camaro trans mount. The engine or trans will not be removed again until it is time to upgrade. The driveshaft is also installed.

My clutch setup is 100% complete and installed and seems to work as it should. Beautiful.

Exhaust headers, trans mount, wiring harness, and fuel setup to be installed tomorrow.

Up close to the slave. Bleeder lines, input lines, and adapter all installed.





Where the shifter sits in the hole with the trans mounted to the body. The engine and trans are in their final resting places and bolted down in this picture.





First gear in relation to my leg, foot on the throttle. Well worn Hurst shifter.





Notice the E-Brake digging into my leg? That's going soon. I will run with no E-Brake at all.

looks sweet cant wait to see it running and in person.

Looks like my Wilwood 4 piston superlight install kit is shipping. These are the two piece rotor hats, to which I will mount a solid brake ring to. Custom machined and set up just for the S13/S14 cars. Very trick all anodized forged aluminum parts. Will shed at least 25 pounds of weight from up front, and add another four pistons to my brake circuit.



Because not everyone has been following along since the beginning of this thread, this is a mounting bracket and rotor hat kit that DEF and Tower240SX over on NRR.com made from a few chunks of aluminum.

Wilwood 4 piston superlite calipers.



Whole kit.







Like bread in a toaster.

how much was the kit?

Wow man, this is coming along nicely!!!!

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

how much was the kit?

If you have to ask you can't afford it. Kidding... the mounting stuff and rotor hats were 420. Calipers are 150 each, rotor rings are 40, lines are 65, pads another 60.

So my front brakes cost about the same as a used SR20 minus the trans.

77 wrote:

Sweet build. Can you take a picture of the area behind the jack panel you removed? I've always wanted to cut those parts out.

If you get a chance, I'd still like to see what's behind there. Your build is really coming along, can't wait to see it sometime.

Oh crap, sorry 77 - I was fully intending to take a shot of there for you. I ended up getting sidetracked and forgot about it. I will get you a shot of the area within a day or so.

Baller brake products.

I love Tower/Def's creations over on NRR. I am glad to see you are over there, great bunch of guys with great knowledge. I havent been on NRR since the racing season is over, but again, nice to see someone else taking advantage of such a great resource.

I was so gung-ho about doing the exact route you did with LS, but all the classes I would be placed in would make the car uncompetitive. To stay competitive I would at the very least need to stick to a Nissan motor for SCCA (SM), and I get penalized on displacement increase as well in my local sports car club so SR is all of a sudden just about my only motor choice...le sigh. Its a shame I don't get points "credited" for going from a 2.4L to a 2.0L...

Cant wait to see it in person.

Is it perverted that I am drooling over the brake setup more than the LS?!

Unsprung weight removal FTMFW!