Our cars are both the same year, yours is red with a redtop, mine is black with a blacktop. I find that pretty funny.
What are your plans turbo wise? That little T25 doesn't look like it'll keep you happy for long. The S14/S15 BB T28 seems like it would be perfect for AutoX and DE's. Very, very quick spool with lots of grunt.
mrsparkle Member
Posts : 134 Join date : 2012-03-09 Location : HARVARD , IL 60033
Our cars are both the same year, yours is red with a redtop, mine is black with a blacktop. I find that pretty funny.
What are your plans turbo wise? That little T25 doesn't look like it'll keep you happy for long. The S14/S15 BB T28 seems like it would be perfect for AutoX and DE's. Very, very quick spool with lots of grunt.
For sure man, the T25 is the suck, but I just want it running/driving reliably at this point. I will probably move up to a disco potato setup when I start to look for teh upgradez.
Quote :
This car is super clean! can i eat off your hood?
Thanks, and hood is only for sexy time, not food!
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
Its been awhile since I have updated the thread, but I try to get something done here/there when I can. Unfortunately as of late I have had zero time to work on the car, my birthday was in late March, my mom and sister came up and visited me for 3 days, then Easter weekend with all kinds of BS plans I do not even want to bother with. But all of those things = me not being able to work on the car.
Last time I left off I broke that GOD DAMN stud in the number 4 farthest back cylinder...I was able to center punch it straight using a transfer punch set, used a right angle drill and left handed drill bits and got it to almost come out on its own. I ended up using a small fluted extractor to get the remainder out due to a weird gnarf that was created when the stud broke.
I was set back quite a bit though because nobody had 44mm long M10 x 1.25 studs. I found 41mm long everywhere, but that extra 3mm makes a huge difference in how many threads the nuts catch. I could have opted to use a thinner washer than those badass man washers that come with the stock manifold, but I like those man washers, so I just special ordered the studs from Fastenal and waited the 4 business days. I think they were $1.78 each and were 48mm long, but they were the most badass ones they offered strengthwise and it cant need THAT much strength in reality...I mean they are exhaust studs, not main studs or head studs.
Got a new exhaust manifold gasket, prepped the head, prepped the manifold, restudded head and turbo while I was at it.
Last edited by Riggle on Sun Apr 08, 2012 6:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
Next order of business was getting the intercooler mocked up officially. I knew it was going to fit like dog shit since it was such a low buck intercooler setup so I was ready. I feel like every single intercooler/piping set I have installed has been a custom affair, whether its a high dollar setup or not. So after owning quite a few nice high $ intercooler sets on my DSM's/GVR4 I decided to go cheap and see what I can do with it.
Some trimming of the bumper support.
It for sure looks like its supposed to sit higher based on the piping and what it wants to do, but I mounted it way higher than most others have (over 1" higher overall). I made custom brackets out of heavy duty steel for the lowers to give it a ton of support, I feel like I can almost sit on it they are so beefy.
Got the holes made/repainted, had to get a few longer couplers because the ones that were supplied just do not fit right, much too short. So interfooler is done.
I made my coolant lines to the heater core while I was at it, that was NOT fun. Got my motor oil/filters/coolant, ordered my exhaust (Megan type 2), ordered a bunch of other little odds/ends.
Once my final hard parts are installed I will do my final wire running and hopefully get it started here in the near future (like this week).
Flicktitty Admin
Posts : 1774 Join date : 2010-08-19 Age : 37 Location : Delavan
Looking good man! hope to see it a few times this year.
For sure man, I will be out there playing with you guys. I can't wait actually, I miss a competent base of car guys to talk to!
speed_demon wrote:
Your core support is so clean and un-mangled. Be very thankful that it isn't tweaked. Man does it suck lining things up when nothing else fits right.
I cant even imagine what it would be like if it didnt line up, it sucked with everything straight!
s13.240sx wrote:
Looks aaaaaamazing! At least you are not cutting any corners! Do it right once works best.
For sure man! I appreciate the kind words. However, I literally thought I could get the whole thing done/running in a few days...LMAO!
I actually wish I wasn't so picky about certain aspects or else I would be way farther at this point.
I cant wait for your critique in person though, I'm such a newb I'm itching to have a good quality set of eyes go over it to learn me what I can fix/do better.
PS, thanks for the wideband! Welding mild steel bung to stainless test pipe was hilarious BTW.
s13.240sx Senior member
Posts : 1113 Join date : 2010-10-01 Age : 111 Location : Menomonee Falls
LOL Thats why I still had the mild steel bung. I ordered a stainless one from bungholes.com or something like that. Also I feel you are giving me far more credit that I deserve in regards to my knowledge about installing the SR. I am just as much a novice as you are, the only difference is that I did my swap 2 years ago so i have been through most of the B.S. already.
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
The hot side of your IC piping looks like it is sticking up a bit high. could just be the angle. When you put your hood on you may find that you might have to adjust it a little. I have the Isis kit, and I know that when I first put mine in ir rubbed on the liner of my hood. I had to loosen up the clamps and give it a little push down so it had more clearance.
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
The hot side of your IC piping looks like it is sticking up a bit high. could just be the angle. When you put your hood on you may find that you might have to adjust it a little. I have the Isis kit, and I know that when I first put mine in ir rubbed on the liner of my hood. I had to loosen up the clamps and give it a little push down so it had more clearance.
You're not off, it sits high. It sucks because the hotpipe is butted up against the outlet of the turbo metal to metal, there is no more room for pushing it closer together. What I am going to have to do is cut off about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the hot pipe to get it to sit correctly on my setup. Which double sucks because I will then be cutting the bead off so I will either have to make a new bead or use some hairspray or something at the coupler to ensure it doesn't want to come off.
Updates include a super sexy battery relocation to the passengers side rear of the car, which was consequently the lightest part of my vehicle on the corner scales so that should help the weight distribution (sort of...lets not kid ourselves). I'll post up pics when I have a chance to take them but I got the 2 gauge battery cable from a MINI I replaced the battery cable on so its ridiculously good quality wire with nice protection heatshrinked over the entire cable because it went underneath the MINI originally.
Just received all rest of my gauges and senders in the mail so I can quick uncork that brass plug I had blocked off for my oil psi sender location and run all the wires. It sucks though, because STACK used the same color wire for all of the senders/gauges...dicks.
if you have to cut the pipe you can just take some pliers and make a small flare on the end of the pipe. that will keep it from ever blowing off. simple and free.
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
I took her out on her maiden voyage today! Runs great and pulls hard (only at 15-16 psi).
Got her weighed while I was out and about, came in at 2700 lbs even!
For reference, she weighed 2787 lbs with 15's/205's, stock KA, all spares/tools ect. Nothing removed.
Both weigh ins were at full tank of fuel.
Lost 87 lbs even though I went to 17x9/10 and 255's (over 50lbs heavier right there from 205/15's). Very happy the swap netted me that much weight loss (ditched A/C as well, only condenser/lines/compressor though, not evaporator). Also added gauges and a bunch of other stuff weight wise so again, very happy about net loss.
Few issues to sort though, no power steering still, have lines, pump and everything routed, but need to figure out reservoir mounting/hose options for that god damn HICAS pump. Feed hose is 2x as big on HICAS pump compared to non, so I have to conjure up a hose that will work.
Tach and speedo do not work...not sure why yet. The wires are correct according to frsport's swap guide, so I need to look further, though I do not have any transmission wires hooked up so perhaps the input are the sensors I haven't hooked up yet?
I would figure RPM/tach signal input would be cam angle sensor or crank position sensor...not trans. Speedo would be trans or wheel speed sensors...but since I don't have ABS that may change the playing field. Again, haven't even had time to investigate, just happy the car drives as it should.
Also need to program gauges, they are all in default modes.
Big item on the list is put header silencers (3" slip in) or something on the car, its way too loud at WOT, it hurts my ears when I am next to a building/fence/tunnel. I mean it sounds amazing, and regular driving its fine, but I will have to conjure something to tone it down just a notch or two. I'll try those header slip in devices (my service writer uses them in his open header drag car) and see if they help or not. I LOVE the way the exhaust looks, so I will not be taking it off, just welding in a muffler or two if I have to. The DD really is growing on me.
Fans kick in at exact temp, BOV/boost controller both tuned, new hubs make a world of difference in hard braking, response could be better since that baby ass turbo has to fill all that piping, but the GT28RS will fix all that in due time.
Whens the next meet?!
Pictars for good measure.
s13.240sx Senior member
Posts : 1113 Join date : 2010-10-01 Age : 111 Location : Menomonee Falls
Was your car a SOHC or DOHC? cause if it is a SOHC the tach will not work you need to get a DOHC cluster for it to work. Speed sensor is in the tranny so you won't have that until you hook it up. Gald to hear it is running though.
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
Was your car a SOHC or DOHC? cause if it is a SOHC the tach will not work you need to get a DOHC cluster for it to work. Speed sensor is in the tranny so you won't have that until you hook it up. Gald to hear it is running though.
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK! Why must I have all these little BS problems because mine is a SOHC?!
its not like that shit is expensive or hard to find. you can't be that mad about it!
i probably have those power steering lines. make an offer.
Not common knowledge I'm afraid.
I don't peruse tech forums often, I just race the car. If I run into a problem I then research it, not the other way around. I find tech forums by untrained individuals appalling and generally filled with misinformation and incorrect procedure. I make it a point not to read them or else I feel this nagging feeling to respond and correct them. Nobody likes being corrected, so I keep out.
600SX and I had this discussion, right Jim?
Its not hard to find, or fix. Its the principle that only the SOHC has all these little BS problems. I am just venting on the forum. I am a professional tech, this shit is cake compared to anything of worth in the shop setting. I have the tools and knowledge to fix anything, it just sucks when things do not go right or fit right when you have the only model this differs on.
Power steering lines have been replaced with stainless braided, thanks though!
Last edited by Riggle on Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:37 am; edited 2 times in total
Riggle Senior member
Posts : 493 Join date : 2010-09-15 Age : 39 Location : Madison, WI
I wonder what the chances are of getting my JDM cluster to work from the clip that I got? Slim I'm sure...my luck only goes that shit ass direction.
You think it's broken, or you don't think you'd be able to convert the speedo from km/h to mph?
Yeah, I was wondering what sort of resistance changes I would have to make to the wiring in order to trick the KM/H gauge into thinking its MPH.
It would be sweet to have a KM/H gauge read as MPH reliably.
The more I think about it though it doesn't matter, MPH and KM/H is such an easy conversion (roughly 60%) that I can do that math on the fly if I need to. My JDM cluster may even have little MPH tick marks in there that I can use. I have to go and check on it. But in reality, if I am using an SR motor/trans, why wouldn't the cluster be getting the correct actual values and work accordingly?
Fri Mar 30, 2012 2:21 pm
