Never seen this before, maybe anybody at that.....help please

well i did the whole Diagnostic procedure 27 EF-EC FSM. I also have a new control module, resistor, plug, wires, distributor cap and coil on the way. When I put the engine back in I noticed some mounts for the plug-ins ( iac, tps) were missing. Now they just kind of hang there. The radiator hose that goes into the top of the engine is there, and the plug-in rest on it. Now i have read that some people of had a problem with some of the sensors getting heat soaked and screwing up. Im going to try and move the plugs away from the heat and see if it make a diffrence. I also have gotten a new ecu, I plan on putting all parts on at the same time.... will keep posting with results

Well, I replaced the resistor and control module today. Rewirring the resistor wasnt easy but I didnt have the right tool to get the pins out or the old resistor. Took about 20 min to take out the old wires and put them into the new housing. Tried to start it and it sounded really funny. Almost like a timing issue. Checked the timming and I was a tooth ahead on the dizzy. Adjusted and its running now!!!! Took it out for about an hour, its been a year since I drove it. Its acted almost like bad gas was in it. It shifts fine and smooth but at about 4k with WOT it startes to stumble. It almost feels like its not getting enough gas. It pulls all the way until 4k and stops pulling but keeps running. It kind of sounds like a pop. When I checked the resistance on the coil it was 1.3 Ohms, its should be at .7 Ohms. Is my coil going bad? Its only maybe 2 years old with the car sitting for about 1 1/2 years. I also put the new spark plugs, wires, rotor, and ignition relay on.

Car is still doing the same dam thing with all the new parts. I also noticed that if Im WOT at 4000rpms it will shutter like when hitting the speed limiter. I checked the fuel regulator by unplugging the vac line and pluging it, took it for a test drive and still same thing. Any input would be great. Im at the point where im thinking about selling the car. Its sat longer than its ran..........

Have you cleaned your maf? Clogged fuel filter?Checked for a vacuum leak? I don't even remeber what you have all checked.

Also have you checked your timing with a timing light to make sure that is right?

checked the timming and was all good, i replaced vac lines when I put the engine back in. Im also going to check the maf to make sure its still good. I talked to an old nissan tech and he thinks that my shitty remaned dizzy from autozone is the problem. He also thinks that maybe my maf is on its way out, not all the way gone but just about. I checked out the pirce of a new dizzy from [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and it $400 bucks. When they reman the old dizzy they use cheap internals that cant handle the heat. The MAF sensor is $450!! looks like its going to be sitting for a bit longer....

I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago but Im going to replace it anyway, cheap.


will post back with results

there are plenty of people on here with used parts that would be cheap that would help you to eliminate caertain parts as being an issue. Also check rockauto.com they always have good parts and prices. Also you can try to clean your MAF first before you go buying a new one. They sell MAF cleaner at all the autoparts stores and it works fine I have used it.

Yep, did that just to make sure I put the rotor on correct . I'll pick up some maf cleaner after work. Checking now for dizzy and maf .

Didn't get to the shop, got off late. I did try and test my maf but the car didn't start. Can I test it without warming up the engine?

im new here but still having probs?

when car dies did you check if it had spark and fuel when ur on the side of the road? that would narrow it down to the prob, i really dont think its a ground issue, i helped two guys with the same problem well some what the same.

is timing right? both cars i help gear timing was off, and i wouldn't rush the fix ur just going to over look it, i know i do all the time

Well, I checked timming and it looked good. I couldn't get it set to stock timming. I need to take valve cover off and check it. I think it might be a tooth off. I swear when I put it altogether it was set. the more and more I research this the more ideas of what it could be. it acted kinda like this when my 1st dizzy went out. I made it to the store and got some maf cleaner. Cleaned maf and tried to start the car with no luck. Have to get a new starter, this one is very very weak. It keeps disengaging, fing re-maned parts!

sounds like a huge fkn headache!!! sorry your still having the problem!! i had a misfire in a KA once...... could not for the life of us figure out the problem... ended up selling it b/c i didnt have time to have a car down. GOOD luck!!

Was it a grey coupe?

Well I got the new starter in and it started right up. Put the new but used distributor in and it didn't even start. I'll gave to double check the timming this weekend. Also had the battery out for a bit before starting it. It cleared codes and drove for awhile before the cutting out came back. This car is just f'ed

Sounds like an electrical "gremlin". Those can be fun to figure out. I am out of ideas otherwise.

Good new, It's Alive! Got of work early today and moved the distributor a tooth. It's a good distributor , thanks! Took it out for about an hour, without any problems. Babied it for a bit, took it up to about 3600rpms and held it there. It didn't stall, shake, sputter, or buck at all. It still idles at 1000rpms with out any searching. Might be my secondary air regulator, I have a new one but am going to make sure the bucking is gone before I touch anything else.

Thats excellent!

back road warrior saturday, if all goes well im calling and getting it insured and register it. baaaaaAAAAH, baaAAAH, BAAAAAH!

Are you mocking me, Haha

If your asking me, no.

Nelson240 wrote:

Was it a grey coupe?

no it was a black coupe, with a HUGE dent in the drivers side rear quarter panal that the previous owner put there.

Well I put the used distibutor in and it was okay for awhile. So I called [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.] and ordered a new one. $400 bucks! Anyway, I put it in and noticed that my o2 sensor plug in had been melted. Im currently looking for an 02 pig tail and new 02 sensor. I also noticed that my temp sensor looks a little umm blackened around the bolt. Maybe heat soaked but im going to try to replace it. Also, my iacv plug in on the harness side it broke so I'll also look to replace that. Maybe all the bucking when hard driving is due to the 02 sensor f'ed. It has been running a little ...warm. will post with results

Nelson240 wrote:

It has been running a little ...warm. will post with results

How "warm", and for how long?

Well, about 75% of the temp gauge, It will also raise if I drive aggresive. Just put in the new top rad hose, and yes I have been bleeding it now for awhile. Going to get a new cap this weekend, might be that. Will post after new cap.

I'm having a similar problem with my ka. It's been swapped from auto to manual. After I got it from the shop that swapped it, all I was told when I mentioned the rough/high idle and occasional stalling was that my iacv needed to be cleaned, and maybe adjusted.

starter is going out, time to get a new one. God this heat is horrible, on one of these good days im going to try and replace pcv valve, sencondary air control,and fuel filter. I put e87 in and it seems to run better. Oh and the iacv is new and adjusted, just seems to idle at 2000 rpms constant. If I down shit threw the gears all the way down to 1st I can force the rpms down to 1000rpms. Sometimes after doing this a couple of times it will idle at 1000 rpms for the rest of the drive. Hope this heat breaks already so I can go put these parts on. Also replaced the upper radiator hose, and double checked the connection on the temp gauge, and sensors. Everything was snapped and connected fine.